Both “TAP” and “RO” have added calmag in it, RO has more macro stuff in it to replace what TAP would have. The Part A and Part B, is ment for a more controlled nute package.
The TAP and RO are your shotgun blast with proper nutes and calmag for your water supply.
The back of bag, grams per gallon is ment to get your EC to 1.0, you need to add more to reach 1.6-2.1 EC.
I found that having a EC of 1.7 will bring “MY” tap water to 6.1 ph +/-.
I usually feed Epsom every other watering/feeding (i feed each watering) in half doses.
Thanx for the quick reply. I didn’t even realize that the strength changed the ph so much. I’ll play around with stronger ratios and see if that sorts me out.
I gave this a quick check, and even when I’m around 1750 ppm I’m over 8ph, retested after half an hour. It must be our water is very different. I’m going to look into getting my water tested, and maybe switch to RO. Anyway, thanx for the tips. I actually wanna do octopots too, but think it’ll be a disaster until I get my water figured out.
Just a heads-up, nothing to freak out but when you go to feed your plant for 2 weeks with the UV itll turn your leaves yellow. Don’t stress because after two weeks your putting it back on TAP and the yellowing will go away.
UV is ment to kick the plants ass into making flowers on the 12/12 swap
copy that. so my idea was to start the seed on a solocup and transplant @ 2 weeks. can I start the seedlings on TAP ? what would you say, 25% strength?
coco will need nutes though the whole process whereas if your using promix or something like it, itll have nutes good enough for the first month of growth.
So normally what i do is i put a drop of superthrive in a liter of ph’d water and use that for the first week, but now that i have jacks clone, ill run that in a couple days when i scratch a seed.
I want to see what the “hype” is on the “clone” nutes
