Part 3 - Trying to get it right

Yeah I think you found the symptom :slight_smile: Add more calcium if that doesn’t help, it may be too much K stopping absorption, I dont know how much is in the MIC or Bud Explosion, but I would have thought it would be balanced being a bottle nutrient, so could be the PH, which you could try upping a bit, those are usually the main culprits for causing it. Apart from that they are looking good.

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Just upped the PH to 6.2 and added a bit of calmag. Spreading seems to have stopped so tomorrow I’ll start to drop the PH down a tad and monitor the leaves.

So far so good! Oh quick question about defoliation. My plants are pretty short and the lower buds are not getting any light. Is it safe to pluck some of the larger fan leaves? These are autoflowers, and not sure if this will stress them out and cause issues.

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Being Autos I wouldn’t touch them, as they don’t have time to recover if they get stressed, generally speaking here’s an interesting thread in case you missed it, cheers … :sunglasses:

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Thanks for the article, I’ll leave them be and maybe give it a go once I get a few plants to harvest without massive leaf damage in the end.

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You’re welcome, Bud Explosion has already Magnesium so perhaps it would be better to add just Calcium, one never knows … :sunglasses:

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You can’t overdoo magnesium, so don’t worry about that.

Yeah let them grow a bit more, they may stretch out when they get into the bud phase more.

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i’ll counter the fellows above suggestions just to play opposite :wink: lol

But drop the starting pH back to 5.8ish or a bit less instead of 6.2 on your next watering and back off the bud explosion to only .3ec or 150ppm if your even need/want to use it. and stay at around that 1.2ec or 600ppm with the megacrop if your using the bud explosion.

Signs of deficiencies just show that the plant is having problems with certain things, that doesn’t mean your not providing it or it does already have what it needs available, could just show that other things may be off such as your starting pH and the addition of the Bud Explosion at a higher rate than even greenleaf lists on their page.

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So after reading about PH for Coco, I though the ideal PH for Veg was 5.8-6.0 and in flower that is increased to 6.0-6.2ph in early flower?

I did double check the BE dosage and yup…did indeed jump the gun on the dosage. I will back off BE as suggested and wait till week 4 till I get back to .45ec

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pH creep happens and typically in the positive fashion as nutrients are taken up by the plant, ideally feed water pH should regularly start off in the 5.6-5.8 range for coco but i just say 5.8 to make it more middle range for what the plant will experience, when you start off at 6.0-6.2 its doesn’t leave much room for the pH to drift before its in ranges that are counter to some nutrient uptake, as i mentioned above for me in coco once my megacrop feed water starts to drift to 6.2 and higher i start to see deficiency issues pop up.

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I’ll mix up nutrients at 600 ppm MC + 150 ppm BE with a ph of 5.8 and I’ll double check run off and PH again.

3 of the plants are still looking great, as the my issues looks to have stopped. One plant is going downhill pretty fast, so I’ll post some pictures when I feed once lights are on.

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mr sparkle hit it on the head 5.8 in coco is where you want to start . I found using mega crop old version the build up was extreme if feeding 600 plus ppm without some serious flushing regularly. I had 2100 run off took weeks to drop it mind you 15 gal pots hold a shit load of salts.

Not sure on the new version of mc epsom salt can bite you in the ass in late flower if there is too much small wispy buds can be had .

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@ShiskaberrySavior , is any of the mc slow release ?
I thought I heard the rep say some of the n was , but I may have dreamt that : )

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I honestly don’t know I had one bag used it up and went back to plant prod salts. I did like the veg results switching to flower was when problems showed . Cal mag did show improvement in later flower .

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I’m thinking if there is some slower release n in mc , that’s what’s gradually building up unknowingly to the user ( nitrogen time bomb ) , causing the high runoff and associated problems later on in the grow as it is then released ontop of the normal feeding given at that time : )

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Huh… That is a sneaky and devious thought… :thinking:

Cheers
G

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I thought someone was complaining about the high n in the ratio and the rep at the time said it was OK as some of that n was slower release for later in the grow
Think he said if you see any signs of n tox later on , to just reel back the ppm or ec , but that means your also cutting back on the p k and other essential too , when you most need them … Whilst using a one part
But as I say I may have picked that up wrong idk
MC " Catch 22 "
: )

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That definitely would make sense on the spike in nitrogen later on !

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I think @ifish just revealed an important piece of the puzzle…
That makes a lot of sense actually. :nerd_face:

Cheers
G

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Anything that is a one size fits all in retail/products , is generally never that great
The only bonus of a one part is more room on your shelf
: )

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I had a look at the mc npk ratio , it’s very low on p for flowering , p is for bud density etc in flower so that with the high n will give the wispy buds for sure
The B E should help that I assume but it is a booster so it may not have the other essentials in it , so the mix of mc and be will not be as complete as using mc on its own maybe
Catch 22 again
: )

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