Yeah I did Autos for speed as jar is low. Tent isn’t up yet so photos aren’t going to happen today. I’ll try to work on Tent tomorrow, massive tooth ache for last 24 hrs so I can barely think straight.
If there was something messed up with the soil or cubes I’ve got new cubes but need more seedling soil. Nute co grower said to stay away from Happy Frogs when they are seedlings. I put about 20% in with seedling soil and that could be the problem, according to them.
I may just wait till tomorrow and get more seedling soil and transplant. Prob going to start more with new cubes just in case. It will be a few days till Tent and everything is up and running…So Autos are the only choice ATM. Thx btw for yer help! @George
Oh and light cycle was 24 hrs changed to 20/4 a few days ago.
I would suggest not using prefertilized soil, I did it once, had nutrient burn and flushed it thoroughly so all its nutes were lost. You can have a better control of the ppm you give just with normal soil, otherwise you will never know what your plant is eating.
They say Autos don’t like transplants, I don’t think with that plant size you will have root bound. You can just check one and see how they look like. If you feed them just with pHed water they will take their nutrients from the soil and that will help if it is hot, you can check any yellow leaves starting when she will begin to be hungry.
Wise move changing the light cycle, plants need a little rest, that was why I was asking it, cheers …
I’m going to wait till tomorrow just in case there is something wrong with the soil. Don’t want it to spread to others. I don’t have any PH up or down, they are sending me some just had to pay for shipping. It would have been $60 otherwise, so that’s cool of them.
I’m not that familiar with checking ppm other than dipping it in a glass of water. He said to make solution at 300ppm. Do you just get a gallon of water and add nutes and measure will adding till u get to 300? The PH was 5.6, I think, will double check and that was spring water. The tap water was high, 7.8 or something close. I’ll search on runoff later…
Still haven’t desided on what to do yet, as far as adding nutes and transplanting. Will know more tomorrow, in pain right now so difficult reading and comprehending…
Perhaps you can add some spring water to your tap water and adjust that way the pH. 300 ppm looks high to me if the soil has already some nutes on it. You should add nutes until let’s say 200 ppm and then check the pH. If you buy nutrient kits it is easier as you already have some feeding charts, I use Advanced Nutrients pH Perfect, three bottles (Flora, Micro, Grow) and just add 3 ml per liter of each of them, easy does it.
Sorry for your pain, what are the ppm of your runoff?
I have only grown a couple auto’s and they were outdoors. but I’ll give her a go. One thing I notice is that you are growing in soil, with a regular liquid feed regimen? OK so auto’s in a small pot demands a transplant like all soil grows, if you don’t start them in finishing pots. The taproot on auto’s grows long and fast, you do not want that hitting bottom so soon. As you are soup style soil grow, I would suggest uppotting with a soilless mix like promix, and water and feed following the bottled nute guidelines for auto’s probably half strength. Adding nutrient mixes in the 300 ppm plus range will destroy most any natural biological soil action in such a small container. Good living soil mixes, super soils etc. need no ‘plant food’ during the whole cycle. Using liquid nutes in small containers with actual soil is a counterproductive grow method.I would encourage you to, Do your transplant asap and You’ll have enough nutes and potions to finish the grow, just fork over 20 bucks for a good soiless mix follow directions and watch your ph and you’ll be fine after transplant. I believe the issue is too small, too much, too soon. Stick with her, she will bounce back.
That’s one thing I haven’t done yet. Still undecided on which way would be best. If I transplant it will be to 1 gal fabric Pots with seedling soil. I don’t want to have to transfer again as their lifetime is almost halfway up, as Autos. So this means they will stay in seedling soil for the whole ride, not ideal but nor is transplanting twice in the middle of their lifetime.
I’m not so sure about just leaving them and hoping they will snap out of it, as the nute grower suggested. They have had weeks to snap out of it and they get worse everyday.
I’ve got a feeding chart and there is one on their site as well. It suggests 6.2-6.8 ph and 800/900ppm. It does say this is calculated using 500 ppm scale, not sure what that means exactly.
I’m sure the ph is a little off but like you said, find the desired ph by mixing tap and spring…Until the ph solution gets here. The seedling soil I used was Black and Gold, not sure what the ph is on it. I’m sure they have more but didn’t see it right off.
Twenty bucks for pro mix, lol not where I shop! Try $40-60 just going off memory but that was for a large bag. And I’ve never used Promix before and this is my first Grow in a long time, as you can prob tell. Yeah at some point I’m going to move to a soilless mix but I’m not sure doing it in the middle of a Auto run is the best time.
The ppm is coming from the nute co and they have charts…It’s powdered not that it matters, they were all Powder at some point. Thanks for the suggestion! I’m just passing info that they gave me. Cuz I sure as hell don’t know.
Edited to say I have only used nutes on one plant. The others were Root powder and Bio Minerals which doesn’t burn the plant. That’s the only nutes other than 20% Happy Frogs.
Follow what they tell you, I didn’t think you needed a full bail of promix for 5 or 6 auto’s. I used to grow soil and soilless with liquid soil nutes, non-hydro. Its a good start, but long term is truly a waste of time and money. Learn to get some soil going,depending on your locale, keep it alive, use cheap easy to find/produce additives, and let nature do the work. Or go hydro/soilless. Some of the dedicated auto growers have excellent threads on here. Lots of reading.
I’m going to move to soilless in the near future. I read for six months straight, before joining a forum. Hell I even bought a few books and thought I was ready. Everyone said to start with soil, then move on to others. Apparently not, lol not much of what I did twenty yrs ago is transferring over to much.
I’m not planning on just running Autos. Just thought it would be easier for first run. And I’m not doing myself any favors not having the tent up but that’s my bad.
I should feel better tomorrow, didn’t sleep last night and didn’t need this today. But I don’t want my little ones to die either. I may just transplant half of them, honestly don’t think I have the room for 9 in a wardrobe, lol. Maybe I can get my head around it more tomorrow, I hope! Thx for all the help anyways!
I think the soil is a bit too hot. I agree with whoever said they will grow out of it. It takes at least 3 weeks before soil runs out of nutes and the seedling uses it’s own until the first set of true leaves. Personally, I would give it regular water for awhile with nothing else until it straightens out, then start at 1/4 strength nutes, increasing weekly until you reach full dose or the plant tells you otherwise. If you are using any sort of ro machine or distilled water though you need to add calmag. I water all of my plants with tap water in soil and I’ve never had chlorine burn.
EDIT: Walked away and had a thought… Are those root cube thingys coco? If they are, that could be your problem there. Coco to soil, roots can’t transition mediums… aka… roots can’t get through to avail soil nutes
In drinking water? Or tap water? Where did you read this? Very curious. I don’t think they are using it in my LA tap water as you cant smell it after you leave it sit out overnight. And the smell is pretty strong straight out of my tap. Pretty sure mine is still evaporating off. Having said that, I use the straight hose water on my big girls every year and have never experienced any burning in my organic grows from it.
Hey @Meesh the Root Riot cube are sphagnum peat moss, and I have a few Jiffy Cubes as well.
I was hoping to use tap water but the PH is high at 7.8 if I remember right. The nute co grower said they would snap out of it.
The breeder said it looked like a lock but didn’t know exactly and suggested to repot very carefully.
What I’m prob going to do is repot half of them 5 and let the other 4 go and see what happens. Do you think that’s a good idea?
They are sending me PH up and down but it will be a few days.
The spring water I tested was at 5.6 but I think that’s better than 7.8.?.
What water would you get, Spring or distilled water? Some bottled water is just RO…
The spring water should have some cal mag in it right? I read the label and some say deionized water and then ionized or something close to that.
Does repotting a few of them and let the other half go make any since or would you do that? At this point I don’t care about yield, even if it’s just a Q per plant then that’s ok. The jar is very low…
And I actually do use it for med reasons and yeah to get stoned to, lol. But seriously I do depend on it for nausea, due to other conditions I have. The anti-nausea tablets literally made me sick the last time I took one. They are sublingual and the sickly orange flavor made me sick as soon as I took it.
Then there is another anti-nausea med, can’t spell it but something close to this, Phenergrin. I’m alergic to it and had a bad reaction in the hospital, it’s a very old drug. Sry, that’s prob more than ya wanted to know.
I didn’t water today so transplant will go easier. It’s weird the oldest popped Jan 7th is stunted badly. The same strain that popped on the 14th has over taken it now. Yes there is growth but at the same time there is death…and death always wins sooner or later.
The only photo is some crappy bag s, with shit genetics But, it’s the biggest by far.
I’m worried about the stem on that one. Between the soil and 1st node it’s turned dark grey. Above the 1st node it’s purple all the way up till it’s gets to new growth and it’s green. That’s the plant I put nutes on a couple of days ago.
It was the Grow nute so high in Nitrogen. The bottom leaves are slowly dieing and half of it is already dead, the rest is yellow. The nute didn’t seem to do much for it. That was just a test plant but nice to have for stuff like this.
Oh and finally the breeder said that the Autos will start to flower as soon as the roots hit the side of the pot. Two are in 4" Jiffy Pots, which I will not use again. I just thought it would make things easier, being that you don’t have to mess with the roots, just plant the whole thing in final pot. But I’ve learned that no one likes them and they restrict air. So I did cut each pot several times, at this point it can’t hurt, lol.
Gotta get some sleep, but will be back tomorrow and try and come up with a fix for these little ones. Thanks again everyone!
Just got back from the store and picked up seedling soil from Black Gold, with no nutes or anything in it. I was walking out and passed a few bags of Fox Farms Coco and said what the hell and grapped a bag. Here is what I picked up https://foxfarm.com/product/bush-doctor-coco-loco-potting-mix
It doesn’t have major nutes like NPK, but it does have some micro life in it or whatever the proper term is.
I am going to try and transfer half of the 9 seedlings into new soil or Coco. Using 1 gal fabric Pots as I don’t have the room for anything bigger yet.
And leave the others in the hateful Jiffy Pots and follow the nute co suggestion. Basically correcting the PH…
I never used Coco before, which way would you lean? What do I need to know about Coco anything in special? Are the micros in the Coco ok for seedlings? Sry for all the questions! Thx Again everyone for all the help! @George@Meesh
I talked to the nute co again and they suggested to stay with the seedling soil for now. So I’m all about KISS! I’ll use the seedling soil and mix in perlite, about 1/3 should be ok, it has some in it already. Thx @George
Glad to hear that, otherwise you would have to do two different feeds with different pH and different watering schedule.
Plants like routines in feedings and environmental, it is better not to stress them, like if every day were Sunday for them. Happy plants make happy growers (no viceversa ).
Check the roots if you transplant one, find out if it is worth continuing or not and post pics …
Read in true living organics ( by the rev)book among others i cant recall. Sorry i didn’t clarify municipal tap water. Not every district adds it, but if you smell chlorine odds are that it is chloramine .Not sure why the switch. If you are organic with no issues I wouldn’t be concerned. They probably still use chlorine. But if it’s in there your microlife would be much happier without it.
Well@ novasphere alot of people have been helping you since I’ve been away! What a great site! I wish I had known about this 20 years ago! I think that’s a great idea to transplant half of them, so you can see the difference with your own eyes. I saw that they are autos. What’s the total grow time for those listed at? Not much room for error with such a short lifespan. Cocoa products are great, and microlife really really like it, but make sure that the salt has been washed out. If you’re not sure just rinse it well and squeeze out all the excess water. You want to pre-moisten it before you try to add it anyway, as it almost repels water when it’s fresh. Black gold is ok. Good idea you have to cut it with Some perlite. The thing about transplanting is that your TAP roots are at the bottom of your current container. The instant you set them on that new soil, they have soil that is good to go so to speak that they can work with. It hasn’t been f***** up yet. The Roots will grow just fine in this new soil, and it really helps snap them out of any mistakes very quickly. Believe me I know, as I was self-taught and sure made plenty of mistakes! Sometimes that sad look the plants might have is a result of the Taproot bottoming out and it may be completely unrelated to any other issues you have. Remember that autoflowers have ruderalis genetics in them . Weeds are famous for their taproots ! I only grew autoflowers a couple times but I came to the conclusion that they should be started in the pot they’re going to be finished in if at all possible. With an 8-week strain, every week is 12% of their life. If you stunt the plants for only one week of their life it’s that same 12%. Starting them in a larger container can make all the difference with yield. I have done side-by-side comparisons, and there is no comparison . You don’t have to mess with them by transplanting, and the plant knows it has some room to get big. Kind of like a goldfish in a bowl. Small bowl small fish. Big bowl big fish. You may not get to see the benefits this grow, but if you try it with Autos in the future, I believe you may come to the same conclusion I did. Maybe you could do a grow ( a different time)with half of them started in small containers and the other half started a big container so we could have a side by side comparison?
Yeah everyone has been really helpful and I really appreciate it! Two strains are supposed to be 60 days from seed to harvest. They are only 2 3/4 inches tall with burns.
The breeder had no idea, the growers at the nute co didn’t really know either. The only thing I can think of is the PH and or the soil. Cuz 4 differ genetics are all doing the same thing.
Just got two gallons of water at the store, didn’t know which to get so just got the spring water. All the others were ionized or deionized from municipal water sources. Going to test PH before watering and put the closest in.
The nute co is sending me more samples of ph up and down. I just had to pay shipping, saved me 60 bucks so that was cool of them! They popped on the 14th and two on the 7th. I just looked at them and I swear I can see bud sites trying to form on a couple.
Only good thing about the two that died are the ones I replaced them with are still small and not burnt to hell yet. It looks like they really suffered being how small they are. But as long as I can get something I will be ok. Don’t care about yield on this run, just need my meds is all. @Upstate
, in most cases they use specific coco nutrients. I’m actually using the KISS method, you seem to go the other way.
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