Yah , it’s still present but with a little more twang 
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Day 1F for 3 of the Sakura F2 by @nube
Here are 1-3 in order in their new 5 gallon pots been 4 days.
#4 and the Goji need another week of veg. The goji needs more branching but I think she did this weird reveg thing so she may get more than a week veg time.
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Quick sneak peak at the veg tent where we will find teens getting ready for flip soon. I have 4x Bear Jelly and 5x Goldy Bear both bred by Fast Slappy at Head Injury Seeds. He’s a great guy out in Cali. Grows organically and such. I’ll give lineage in next post .
Also in the pic is the 4th Sakura F2 on the right with the dark fat leaves. And also pictured are 2x LandoS stash clones and Dla5 F2 clones
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Goldy Bear is Bloody Bear Kush x Golden Ticket
Bear Jelly is Jelly Breathe S1 x Goldy Bear
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Looking good in here! Too bad about the Jabba’s… the Goji is looking good though!
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Going to update with pics in the morning but it looks as if the 2 smaller DLA 5 F2s threw some nuts at the exact same spot and it looks like they pollinated themselves at the lowers where sacks were located. I never throw anything out after 1 run if it shows intersex so we will see next round of it does the same.
Also Sakura F2 #3 looks to be male, but I’ll give it a couple more days to confirm. I will keep the male clone around if it roots for possible preservation next year.
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Sakura F2 #3 showing male
Then we have the #2 also showing male.
This one also has a citrusy stem rub but without the menthol touch.
If the clones root I will probably keep the #2 male bases on structure as she was a little less stretchy than the #3. I still have 2 more Sakura F2. The #1 is probably female but the #4 still needs to be up potted (Ran out of soil 
) before I can flower her. 
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Couple days left on this Lando
Comparison pic from last round
I’d say she is happier in the first pic
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compared to lower frequency light waves like 2800K aye they will …but you can vary stretch some with altering your light cycle times too. 20/4 at 3500k should be similar to 18/6 @ 4000k as far as node spacing etc. Probably need calipers to measure the difference.
uh…not the way i understand you to be asking. Light height is something that you do not want to vary for this purpose. You want to find a fixed optimal distance and stick to it. I do this by adding and subtracting boxes under my plants. Some vary light height with chains I expect.
Varying power with the type led will get you more light …it is kind of like adding water to a full glass…see above… optimal
Best requires different wave lengths and thus two different light output spectrums at the least if not two different lights. One for veg and one for flower.
Minimally I do ok for self with less 2 hlg 60 v1’s for flower at 2800k and one hlg 60 v2 4000k for veg. About like burning 3-4 old incandescent lamps as far as load. Still smoothing over the low spots for now.
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Awww…too bad about the twin towers (#2) being male…would have had some sweet tops!!
How’s that dla5 smell?? Bodhi says its got that straight skunky stink!
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I thought you really wanted a higher blue spectrum for veg though (6000-6500)? Thanks for the response, I’m really trying to figure this out.
Two different lights would put this completely out of reach for awhile.
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3500 is a fair compromise to do both in and would serve well as a veg light later.
IME nodes get too close together plant is a PITA to work with anyway
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I’ve noticed that some appear hard to work with when they have 10 nodes in the thickness of a flapjack.
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Badger, go read this thread from start to finish: Cheap LED Strips : A Viable Alternative
But the last few dozen posts really sum it up. You can refer to my most recent posts for the latest info and videos that describe what’s going on. This one and my post before it as well give a good baseline on the current state of research into cannabis lighting done in public labs, not done by lighting companies who are biased:
You don’t need high color temp to veg, that’s BS. You’ll want to unlearn all the weed growing conventional wisdom you have read or been told over the years - they’re mostly all myths with no basis in fact or science, often created by people selling products or selling their image as know it alls.
It’s mostly about the ratio of the colors output by your light. Blue makes plants grow slow and small. Red makes them grow big and fast. Too much of either is bad. All modern white LEDs from Bridgelux, Samsung, Osram and Nichia contain plenty enough blue at all color temps between 3000k and 4000k to effectively veg and flower weed (don’t trust any other manufacturers of the diodes, and don’t trust brands that market themselves all over the place - especially not the purple or pink spectrum light manufacturers).
But we’re just in the infancy of being able to study the effects of very specific light spectrums on weed. There’s no proven benefit to adding UV or supplementing anything if you use LEDs from the mfgs I mentioned above in the color range I mentioned. They will grow phenomenal weed from seed to smoke.
And you do want to vary light height and keep the type of lights that @Vagabond_Windy built a max of 12" above the tops of all plants. You lose half the light that your plants use to photosynthesize at every doubling of distance from the canopy, and you lose 15% to wall reflections no matter how shiny your walls are. So you want to try to train your plants to be roughly the same height and keep LED strip lights as close as possible to the tops. I have some that are 3" from my old COB LED lights right now and they’re doing great.
If the plants seem to suffer, instead of raising the light you’re better off dimming them to lower the intensity - you use fewer watts and don’t lose the intensity or waste photons on wall reflections like you do from hanging the lights higher - this is why extra high intensity lights from a few point sources above your canopy are a bad idea compared to distributed lighting across the whole canopy from LED strips. And light intensity will have an effect on keeping plants short, to some degree. With all other variables being equal, the majority of plant height in veg is dictated by light intensity, heat, their genetics and how they react to your light spectrum. In flower, it’s almost completely heat and genetics.
As for keeping plants short, I address this in one of my posts above. Summarized version - like Herbie mentioned, you don’t actually want stocky plants for best yield unless you are restricted to really short ceiling heights.
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Ill take any pollen off your hands
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Normally I’d be more than willing to hand of some jizz but unfortunately I don’t have space to flower any males.
My wife and I are planning a big move early next year and I’d like to hold off on seed runs or flowering males until then😀
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I will give you a detailed smell report on the Dla5 F2s tonight. So happy to have 4 of them. Although I only have 3 of the females cloned and I have a male clone as well.
These are pics of the 2 taller phenos today at 30F. Glistening
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All good i need to invent smellavision and make billions
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I will try to read through it, again. Some of that stuff got pretty confusing, but I will try to hit some of the major points again. I think you explained alot though, so I appreciate that.
Edit : you weren’t kidding. That last stretch of posts explains alot!
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The people in that thread are super helpful and I learned a lot in there @Badger If you get confused about anything LED related, that’s a good place to ask. 
@Vagabond_Windy that Landos F2 turned out really nice this time, looks thicker or is that just an optical illusion?
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