I’ve been told the tone of the pump changes and you can hear it. Also, if you are watching the pressure, it will only go so low.
Guess I need to get a uv light and glasses
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Yea maybe it takes awhile to get to its minimum. You’ll want to check your altitude to find out max vacuum for your area. I’m sea level so I get I think 29.8 or 28.9 inches of mercury. I stabilize wood with a vac pump. I’m at max vac within 10 minutes and then it sits there removing air for who knows how long, I can only assume ac would be similar. Moisture also make your pump “smoke” because water boils easier under vac
OK @Grease_Monkey I have seen some very detailed videos on doing it on the tube, they show a 45min vac on a drained system , so maybe my system will be empty by then,
I have used cans with very good results in the past (small can that you need to tap and then attach to the vac line to fill the system)
I had the air coming out at 39 degs, which was very good for my cars.
Thanks I tried the dye and shows no leaks that is why I am leaning towards a mechanical failure in the AC system itself.
I dont want to change a compressor out with my head and back.
I don;t have access to a lift anymore and ground work sucks.
THANKS MUCH
The cans just dont last as long as 134a. Supposidly they are damn near just propane which is why anyone can buy them.
If your compressor kicks on when you hot wire it I’d be looking at the pressure switch, power supply, or low fluid
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@Badger, they sell a kit for leak finding
Check ebay , it comes with a can of dye sealer most times
you add the dye sealer just like you would when you add more coolant to AC system.
Then after so many hrs you get the UV light out and search
I never had to use the glasses, you see the dye right away under the light if leaks are there.
OK cool
Pressure switch is the one attached to accumulator body correct
I get smaller 20 oz cans of R134a
I know the leaks are there, but I don’t know where, there is. 
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LOL I know that
If the seals are shot and AC has not been charged in yrs
The whole system is in need of an overhaul I bet
That was my thought. I was hoping to start smaller though 
My recommendation would be take it to a shop, get them to leak check it for you, then take their list of faults and go fix it… if you dont wantvto pay them to.
A Can of the seal dye is cheap
If you know how to add it and have the charge line for the low side
of AC I would try it and see if it seals it
May last for the summer at least.
You will need to add more coolant also most likely.
Like this
I have a friend that I was gonna ask to diagnose a few things.
The last time I tried to have a shop do a smoke test to my evap system they advised a new gas cap first. When I got a factory cap, and went back the smoke test had gone from 80 to 120. I told them no thanks. Still have the evap leak 
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I just had idler pull go on my truck yesterday… new belt and pully is $120 could be worse.
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Cat catastrophe.
Exhaust manifold Cat explodes and dumps into rear Cat. 2 out of 3 cats destroyed.
That happened almost 2 years ago.
Still driving the biatch, “Cat delete.”
Runs better than before. 2001 Ford escape v6 4x4. 160k miles.
Smog check in October. I will dump the car. Not spending 800 just for parts, the California approved Cats.
I only paid 3000.
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Thats a good price if a shop did it.
Shops here get 165 dollars an hr
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165 US daaamn I want to work there. The average near me is 100 CAD
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Thats me doing the work. I always fix my own stuff, can’t afford a shop 
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LOL Thought that was on the good price side.
I have switched a few of them pulleys out myself
after trying ever lube on earth to kill that nasty squeak, LOL
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