Your bloom npk ratio is fine but your veg nutes have no p what so ever
P = roots in veg formula
If I reduce the numbers in your ratio to be easier read they are
4/0/2 = 2/0/1 for veg nutes
2/8/4 = 1/4/2 for bloom nutes
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I broke alot of rules and made a lot of mistakes. Must have gotten lucky with genetics.
Learned a boatload. If my skin lets me keep growing (allergies kicked up some nasty stuff) I will look into supplemental phosphorus.
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I assumed the non-reduced numbers had something to do with PPM.
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20/20/20 is the same ratio ( n relating to p and p relating to k kind of ) as 10/10/10 or 3/3/3 etc
If a bottle says 3/3/3 , in a gallon of water say we put in 1ml to reach a certain ppm
Using the 1/1/1 bottle in a gallon of water to reach the same ppm we put in 3ml
If both bottles are the same price , the 3/3/3 bottle is better value for money as it is 3 times more concentrated
It’s hard for me to put things in words but I try my best
If at all there is anything abit foggy , just reask , I don’t mind , and I’ll word it differently : )
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@AllOra don’t forget it’s important to look up proper drying and curing teqnics as this will bring out the potency and falvor of your newly chopped buds : )
Here’s some other info to ponder over
Springtime = stems and leafs and loading up leafs with n etc , higher n in ratio ( 2/1/1 or similar )
Summertime = bud density and budding , higher p and k ( 1/2/2 , 1/3/3 or similar , 1/3/2 or similar is fine too , personal preference and availability comes into play here )
Fall = ripening of buds higher k in ratio ( 1/1/3 or similar , this may be slightly harder to find in organics )
Max power / full momentum for task in hand
If you live in the us @jetdro will keep you right on which nutrient that works well and he certainly knows his stuff on npk ratios too : )
Hope this helps : )
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I’m using @GreenleafNutrients Megacrop atm It’s emphasis seems to be the roots. Good strategy it seems from some of the threads here. They are also providing some additives for flowering and as an enhancer but this product is meant to be good enough to run alone from seed to harvest.
My understanding is that it is the 3rd formulation currently so the package pictured ratio of 9/6/17 is to be taken with a grain of salt.
There is another thread on it here
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Hi @Olbrannon : ) , I tried to open the megacrop link but my iPad kept timing out (old ) , I also clicked on the lower link and had a quick flick
To talk about your npk ratios I really need to know the exact ratios your using , or maybe you have another related question for me , I’m just a regular bloke not a lab coat haha : ) what’s on your mind ?
Sorry for not gettin back sooner , I was up the road getting my Chinese takeaway : )
I like a three bottled feeding regime , one for veg , one for early and mid flower and one for late flower
I’m indoor Mapito flood and drain
I had a look at the one part megacrop , it doesn’t suit the way I grow , it may suit others tho , just not me : )
Dude you just clarified something I’ve been puzzling over for almost a year. See why Jet likes you.
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Jetdro has a big hart , very likeable guy , we bounce of well togeather : )
If anything else is bothering you , just say , I love to help if I can : )
If it seems stupid to ask just hit me on pm : )
I’m keeping cut buds in a cool, dim but not dark, area with circulating air. When the twig snaps (or they feel the dryness of buds on twigs that snap) I move them to start-date/strain labeled jars with hygrometers. If the humidity in a jar is over 70 I dump to a table to dry overnight.
I burp the jars until the relative humidity hits 62, or dips below. I stick a Boveda 62 in the jar and keep an eye on it. When the RH stabilizes at 62 (for a week or two) I will remove and recirculate the hygrometer and Boveda.
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Here’s how I do it
we harvest just befor lights on , this means that trichs are fully loaded with goodness
and the light has not degraded them yet , trichs are the plants sunscreen , at night the plant replenishes the goodness in them for the following day
The branches go hang in dark place or in paper bags , temp 17-21 c , 17 being best ( slowest dry time ) never dropping to 15 or lower , but with air circulating but not directly on the buds
after say 3-7 days depending on drying environment the outer surface of the buds will feel dryish but when you bend the branch it will just kink , no snapping yet
then they go into sealed plastic bags or jars , the contents of the bag over 1-2days will equalate moisture and the outside of the bud will feel wet again , then back to drying again in paper bags or hanging in dark
when outside of bud feels dry we bend the branch in a different place , if it kinks we go through the stages again etc
if we bend the branch , the top full half snaps but bottom half kinks ( like child’s green stick fracture ) this indicates that the buds are just at or slightly below 70 %rh , so it is safe to put in jars or bags as no mold will happen , we trim buds of branch , a humidity reader in the jar makes life easier , with this more detailed drying we are drawing the mousture from the center of the bud while also not drying the outer of the bud too quickly or over drying it : )
now in jars or sealed plastic bag peminatly , we open lids or open bag once a day for a minute or two , till the day we are finally happy ( steady 62%rh reading in small humidity reader in jar ) or by general feel /full snap , keep an eye on the humidity reader in the jar if you have one , as it may rise over night slowly so more burping required , needs to be steady 62 for storage
from chopping the earliest you can have a quick sample puff is usually10-14 days or 2 weeks but only at 3weeks will it start to get really potent and really nice tasting
if at any stage of this process you drop to below15c the cure slows down and if lower than 12c it stops and cannot be restarted
if you dry too quick you will not give the chlorophyll a chance to escape from bud and it will get locked into bud and bud tastes like hay
if contents of jar or bag goes at or below 55%rh the cure stops and cannot be restarted
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YES…what I meant was: I use to have too much N in my flower formula, so I was “pushing N” meaning giving too much N…N grows leafs…so I meant my RATIO was wrong, I had too much N in the mix, and CONFUSED the plant with the high ratio of N in my feed during flower. Plant wants to make leaf not Bud when you do that. Took me LONG TIME to understand this all. I NOW ratio the plant to where they want to be during veg n flower, and use low PPM but feed constant. A constant low dose feed works better for my plants than a 1 or 2 time a week Whack with 1200 PPM.
When I use to use too much Nitrogen in flower I thought my plants were healthy, and they for the most part were . I was just not giving the plant what she wanted or needed at the correct times or ratios. Im finding out that the ratios we use are more important to the plant than the ppm or ec level at which they get it. When the flower ratio is out of whack, and we have 2 times the n as P or k…the plant responds by NOT fading, NOT growing strong stems, NOT making dense Buds, NOT having the terpin profile it should, and being way too dark green. Been there, done that, through with that. I no longer GROW LEAF N STEMS in flower, but GROW BUD and feed roots. 2 or 3/1/1 for veg for me, flower at 1/2/2-1/4/4 and the difference is night and day .
ifish is cool, knows of what he speaks, and i tend to like the way he explains things.
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I’m an indoor grower , in Mapito , flood and drain
Outdoors and or organics ( teas and soil amendments etc ) isn’t my thing tho : )
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Is this true of dry as well as cure?
Yes , the lowest you want to go in the drying process is 16c , 16-17c is the best / slowest temp for drying and curing of buds ,
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As I heard it bud rot needs 65 F or lower which is close to the numbers you have here. I would think you would want to keep it above that and with a cushion if true. OTOH I liked what I got when I dried in a fridge. Just not what it did to the food in there lol.
Hello that wasn’t to bad lol
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