Mapito Eb & Flood - HLG starfleet - Strain Judging

A bit late probably, since you are deep in the groove sharing your setup from the future, but welcome! Nice to see you around, I read your stuff on Seeddepot years back and had a pack of Chucky’s Bride, but they went bad in my long hiatus. I’m happy to see you active and am looking forward to your new stuff.

I’d love to learn more about your ventilation approach, I see many duct fans in your tent that I don’t quite understand the need for, as opposed to “normal” mixing fans. Also the inlet/outlet valve approach to controlling temp/RH (with constant fan speed??) as opposed to a controller is something new for me which I’d love to get more info when you have a chance.

Cheers!

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@Orloff
Tube fans are industrial types. They are the airmixers who form = air race track.
Temp and RH is equal in every inch² in the tent.
The inlet is above the airmixer fans, the spread is also in seconds, same for the Humidifier and Dehumidifier.

One thing that is important = RACE TRACK AIR MOVEMENT
One direction from wall for me, no go.
Look at every industrial/agricultural commercial farmer/grower … always race track.

Valves of inlet and outlet allow me to steer the RH and temp, yes that is correct.
The torin systems are all attached to climate controllers. Never constant fan speed.
DH and Humidifier are attached to humidity controller + wifi smart plugs to steer even more.

Normal mixing fans, i blow them up in matter of months. They also do not have the air mixing power like i need.

At start of a run, a fan is on top of the scorpion is active, it blows on the converter and the upper layer of the leds. The tube mixers, mix in that heat in the entire tent, in seconds.
More (thermostat) heat comes in from the bottom radiator, where another fan blows the warm air into the race track air.
At start, valves of outlet are mostly just not fully closed to increase humidity and temp.
My filters can handle 75% RH.
The inlet valve is partially open or closed (or redirected into other channels), it all depends what channel i chose, where the inlet air come from and how the ops temps are.
Never a constant, always adapt to the situation.

One tent in daycycle, gives air to one in nightcycle, and vice versa.
Nightcycle, increased CO2 production, gives air to a room in day cycle …
That is why i tripple filter the air in all pipes.
Seedrooms can share seedless rooms, without one pollen is spread.

Economics, to benefit heat and spread it, without spending allot of extra energy to it.
I want my energy in light output and a minimum from heaters.
I try to use the warm air as optimal i can.

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I described a winter situation.
In summer inlet air comes from North side and outlet goes to South Side.
The track the air follows, it depends the situation of the room stadia.
In summer radiators get removed, fan on top of scorpion led is removed.
Wanting the hot air out, since hot air climb it gets sucked out pretty fast.

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@Orloff The fans are called haf fans aka Horizontal Air Flow. they are built for greenhouse industry .
The old style fans wall beaters are tough on plants . Where the haf fans are mounted above the canopy to move and mix the air co2 .
They are build to run for months very low amp draws.

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@eskobar
Thanks for taking the time to type all this and give me additional insights into your setup. I realize now that your valving system is a specific solution for your specific situation with several stand-alone units that need to be ventilated optimally and with most efficiency. I love the idea of energy optimization, reusing the waste heat, etc.

My situation is very different, after many years with small (or even micro) grows I was finally able to put up a module of standard 1.2x1.2m size in a purpose built garden shed. Small for some, but a luxury of space for me! The shed is insulated well, but still nowhere close to a house, basement, etc. In winter, I found that venting to outside is detrimental and it’s much better to return air to inside of the shed. It cuts down on radiator running time considerably! I will probably have to change the setup completely come summer, vent to outside, add active intake, etc. I am hoping it will be enough, I really don’t want to add a mobile clima unit (no space, no stealth capacity for a real minisplit).

Regarding your running track fan setup, I thought that was what you are doing. How is the noise from all those fans, or is that not a consideration for you? I am hoping that ground-mounted turbofan pointed straight up will be enough mixing for my tent. If not, I will probably look into creating a vortex, but maybe with 140mm AC computer fans…

Can you perhaps direct me to the manufacturer of your 75% RH filter? I find that mine tend to not last long in higher humidity (Prima Klima Industry line).

@Drip-n-wet thanks for the link, I am familiar with those greenhouse solutions, GAS/Systemair has something similar for a scaled-down, room/tent environment. Still quite large and loud though:

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Rhino Pro filters have a 75% peak of RH. This brand last very long in humid conditions like Mother rooms.
Yes, the air system with valves i have build, it evolved during the years and is made for my specific setups. I have some more ideas for further finetuning.
In TL2 unit i use a big inline filter that has an M5 filter in front of the carbon filter. It also helps allot to make the carbon filter last longer. Inline filters make it possible to hang the leds superclose to the ceiling and run them at full power. The light spread is on its maximum like that.

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Tl2 unit @ 6w flowering
Increasing the UVB slowly up to 2 hours next week.
Allowing the Water Volume Conent (VWC) to reduce up to 20% to create some nutrient stress.
At this point they drink 70L - 18,5 Gallon from the 90 liter - 23,77 gallon rez every 3 days.
MKP increased to 0.5 EC (Haifa MKP, flowering PK booster)


A look at the Pore Water Solution EC and WVC drops since day zero flowering

Temps are 80 F and RH at 60% with some moments of 55%.

Still, i not like this old mother flowering run …
The buds are dense and fattening up, the smells are overwelming.

No more cougars for me … on my camping.

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TL1 unit - update

Things are speeding up, plants are recovering fast from being to long in p9. New growth is visable daily.




They were on 24hours light, but a few days ago i reduced to 18/6

The plants could handle 41 DLI (total daily rain of light) on 24 h, at 480 PFD
This means on 18 hours of light, i must try and aim for this 41 DLI. This means further push up the PFD and crank open that HLG Scorpion further up. This was now reached on 640 PFD.
The booster bars are ON , 12 hours, 3 h after lights go on, till 3 hours before they go out.

The VWC reduction is speeding up = roots are taking overhand.
The Pore water EC is slowly stacking up to the 3 pwec i want at this moment.

The reservoir contains the following:
Basic tap water 0.7 ec
1.0 ec Hesi Hydro VEG
Rootstimulator
BioNova BNenzym
Triacontanol (DIY)
Chitosan (DIY)

PH set on 5.6 with PH- veg
Drain water PH returns at 5.9

Flowering mode will come soon …

New cubes have been made to add more booster led bars to other units.

Have a nice sunday eve everybody
cheers

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I’d like to pick your brain about how you set up the cage inside that holds it all… the metal bars around it… how did you build that? I’m thinking I want to try it man… which uv do you use… and do you have far red also? What kind if so?

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It’s so much info to take in… amazing man! Thank you!

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Hello @Terpsnpurps
The cage is actually very simple.
It is the booster bar kit from Secret Jardin. These are the 19mm diameter kits.
Check your tent pole diameter and buy the correct ones.
Compare very well in between webshops!!! prices differ up to 30%
Buy extra corners plastics, you never know when you need a spare. For the money it cost … do it.
This unit TL1 is a Phantom Deluxe tent of 1,5m². They are higher than regular ones and come with a few extras.

HLG makes a UVA bar that fits on several of its led lights. This UVA is always on when the leds are on.

The UVB i use is from Migro. (Ireland) Shane from Migro makes fantastic reviews on all kinds of led lights. He also did a nice interview with Prof. Bruce Bugbee. He has a nice channel and worth a watch. (Mrgrowit has done a nice interview with Prof Bruce Bugbee to last month, about Organic vs Synthetic Fertilisers, highly recommend it, everything from these guys is good info)
Migro ships also to US, my friend dripnwet has them to.

Migro UVB is 18 watt light, 75% uvb and 25% UVA. Peaking at 310 UVB.
I am not related to this brand.
I have grown units with and without. I notice a difference.
The combination of Chitosan (+ B. Subtilus) + UVB (+ now another trigger, Blue spectrum booster bars)
= Fire!
I dont use special PK booster or flashy named bottles. I use plain MKP from Haifa as PK booster.
A bag of this lasts for years and it costs 30. Slowly build it up from week 4/5, done.

Far red is build in my HLG Scorpion Diablo’s. They are great lights but they do cost allot.

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I’m using a gavita pro 1700e… so lots of blue… but wanted to add uvb and far red… ok that’s what I was thinking just some extra tent bars and I actually have some extra corner plastics lol

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Thanks again for all that you are sharing with us. Can’t wait to hear more about your DIY Chitosan suitable for hydro. BTW your root booster - Hesi, Bionova, something else?

I’ve started using Plagron Power Roots recently, but it seems to burn plants easily at recommended 1ml/L. Maybe it’s the humic acid… Besides, looking at all root stimulators, it seems that the main ingredient is kelp extract, so I’d rather use just that since I have access to a quality cold-pressed one.

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Kelp extracts must be handled with care. To much can work against you.
Many rootstimulators are high in P.
Always check the ingredients on the bottle.

For my ops, i have used a wide diversity of rootstims, including the ones i made myself with IBA-K, Naa and Iaa.
Right now, in TL1, it is Hesi Roots. But it needs high dosages and is expensive. It does work great.
I have used Bio Nova Roots in the past, succesfull.
TL2, the few pics i showed here above used Atami Rootfast
My Seedrooms and mother rooms, they get Rootbastic from Atami.
Every two weeks kelp, but i not buy that stuff from the canna industry.
The agricultural world delivers them to me per 1,5 gallon. Pure cold pressed brown seaweed. It cost not even 25% of the dilluted canna industry …

Sometimes i dont even use rootstim … it depends on the stock i have.

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For the TL1 update.
I forgot to mention that the VPD is 0.8 - 1.0 at this fase of the grow.

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Just read through this thread and pleasantly surprised I’m not far of with some of the things I have been doing in my tents.
Secret Jardin. Has some nice products and Ive stuck with them for a while. My issues with them is availability and customer service in the US isn’t the greatest. And the DRT60 tents I can no longer find, so if you come across some remember me.

I truly am intrigued by the table grow now :grinning:

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Indeed, Kelp is super strong, I typically use it cca two times - once early in life (around 3 nodes) to help establish roots and increase vigor, and once in late veg usually around the time of final transplant. I made a mistake of using it during stretch phase, that was a funny experiment, but also an interesting tool for increasing size and yield (and also flowering time!) of plants that don’t stretch much.

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Amazed how organize your room is and Kept immaculate

I must’ve read the this whole thread over twice I’m just a simple grower and am amazed at the depth
I need to up my game

There’s definitely a lot to take in

Thanks

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High …
Update time …
TL1 is doing great.
PUSHING them to the limit.
-High Ec
-High humidity and temps
-High PFD - DLI of 42
The speed is incredible last days. Need to flower asap or things will be out of control soon.
Fronts are way more indica than the back, no problem, ill tame them :slight_smile:
Phone pics vs Nikon DSLR pics, mixed, to have a wider impression.





Third Gen of the year is doing great to

What about TL2?
Uhm, its rough.
Pushing them with 2.5 Ec (Pwec goes up to 8 ec!) The sky is the limit … space traveller
No special products, Haifa MKP and no secret or magic things. Not believe in that.



The buds are superdense and so frosty they get hard to photograph, they reflect
The trimmings will be top notch, the rosin press need to come asap






That is 7,5w flowering
1,5 to go

Wishing you all a great weekend

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My goodness look at all that goodness!!!

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