Yes, the ratio is 3,2,1. I usually start out at lower and work up to the 3.6/2.4/1.2 dosage.
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So I finally started my micro octopot grow! Things have been going pretty well so far I think, but I’m having a little issue I’m beginning to worry about. One of my plants has been drooping a bit. I can’t seem to figure out whatight be off. Some of the leaves look a bit off to. Some light yellow stripes on leaves. Nothing too bad just doesn’t look perfectly healthy to me.
My environment has been very stable at around 77 degrees Fahrenheit and about 65 RH. The pH of my water has been going on at 6.3 and ppms are at 550. Soil is a Coco coir potting mix similar to coco loco. My nutrients are VBX one part nute, cal mag, and a little garden friendly fungicide. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
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Looks ok to me so far. Some plants droop naturally, my Orange Grove plants were Helmet Heads from the start.
The yellow stripes don’t show up much in your pic. I’d keep a careful eye on pH. I try to hit 5.8 on a new batch of nutes because it will rise as the plant feeds.
Best of luck,
-Grouchy
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Hi bro
Color looks good and your numbers are what I run
But I’m not a coco grower I use pot mix
I think ph for coco is different you may need to hear from the coco gang
How far are your lights away from the canopy ? Light intensity could be an issue
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Good morning @GrouchyOldMan hows it goin
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Nice to hear from you Paps!
Puttin one foot in front of the other here, most of the hard stuff is behind me on the Fem Frankie grow. Buds and seeds are both fattening up. Not my biggest harvest, but prolly my most interesting.
I had an interesting octo problem, perhaps I’ll post it here and let you experts have a wack at it…
Cheers,
-Grouchy 
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Not an expert just a hack myself
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I would increase the feed to 800ppm/ec1.2. ph is ok at 6.3.
@firehead consider gypsum or wollenstonite. a little extra calcium never hurts.
@Papalag @GrouchyOldMan : how do you do this fine tuesday gentlemen? tell me about the problem, I’m definitively not trying to avoid work…
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@SaintAliasKnife hi there all good here
Hopefully your having a great day
Oh by the way your garden is spot on
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Thanks everyone for the advice. I will lower pH and raise ppm slightly the next time I water. It’s odd to me that one plant is drooping and the other isn’t. The one that is drooping has quite a few roots in the res while the one that isn’t drooping just has one root coming out of the net cup. Not quite touching the water as of last night. I hope that the other plant doesnt start showing the same symptoms once it’s roots reach the res
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Greetings All,
I’m reluctant to post this because I’ve just been using it to take notes as I worked through a recent problem. I think I’ve resolved the issue, but in the hope that the process might be useful to others growing in octopots, and at the request of my pal @SaintAliasKnife, I present “The Troubling Event!” Apologies in advance for self-indulgent rambling… I was talkin to myself mostly.
For the background to make sense of this refer here:
Frankie’s Daughters: Unpacking a Frozen Genome - #71 by GrouchyOldMan
I had been spending so much time on a sequential series of selective pollinations that I neglected my patient’s daily health checks in their hour of need!
I had a Hilda meltdown on my hands this week. Mature leaves yellowing and dying. Dozens. Both Hilda plants. Something has gone badly wrong here.
[There are a bunch of pics below]
Gads! What if I have kooked entirely and murdered the entire batch of Frankie’s Daughters; seed moms, F1 crosses, back crosses? I’ve got almost a year into this project already. WTFH went WRONG???
Unthinkable. That was my mindset until I observed the progressive rapid onset of a serious looking leaf problem that was common to both of my Hilda pheno plants. Yellowing, followed by brown spots, gray patches and finally death as the leaf tip dries and curls.
Those signs had developed over the course of a few days and I first considered the possibility that this was just the natural leaf fade and dieback as the plant nears harvest.
But at week 5, day 6 of flowering, Hilda didn’t look near ready, although the first red pistils have appeared and they are both bulking up sugary colas. The leaf damage appeared to progress upwards on the plant, with the oldest leaves having the most damage.
That progression suggested that this wasn’t a pest. I also ruled out mildew and fungus after a detailed inspection of the leaves top and bottom. Nuttin.
I considered a deficiency or excess in the nutes I was using, but it was a tried & true Jack’s early flower mix that I had used many times earlier as well as the other plants in the room. I pH each batch gallon by gallon and shoot for 6.0 until I hit it.
Yellow leaves also hint of a plant that is starving for more nutes. That leads to yellowing and death of the leaves from the bottom up. Right?
The problem is that the measured EC hit 2.1 on the most recent batch as I pushed these Frankenstein Daughters expecting them to be heavy eaters reflecting their clone-only parent. If anything, I might of been pushing their growth stage, but I’m pretty sure they were getting enough CannaCalories in their diet.
They were also getting their photons raining down from above. Each plant has its own 250watt ViparSpectra XS 2000 LED dimmed down to a solid 950 PPFD, on the top buds, the lowers were still getting a respectable 500. These lights can crank up to 1300+ I think, so dimmers and an 18" minimum distance were both in force.
The other environmentals were all in bounds, daily averages: Temp 68F, RH 46%, VPD 1.3. Right where I wanted them.
Oh yeah, runty little Olive, our other dominant phenotype plant, is completely unaffected. Both Olive plants are happily filling in small but very healthy looking buds. They haven’t missed a beat.
The first time I put all that together I came up with nothing. Because nothing explains all of those symptoms completely. On the other hand, there are half a dozen things that could be causing it.
To Be Continued…
I now know what happened but I welcome your analysis and the specifics of how you, my elite OG growers, would approach this problem?
I’ll follow up with my outcome in a few days. Maybe we’ll make a game of it… nail the problem win a pack of seeds?
-Grouchy
The very first stage
Top Down View, Yellowing and deficiencies, oldest leaves, all the way up
Second stage, pH and or Ca / Mg? Or just necrosis as the leaf gives it up?
Any attempt at diagnosis should explain why neither of the Olive phenotypes show any sign whatsoever that they even notice what’s going on. They are a week or two younger from seed, so I only recently upgraded them to early flower Jacks, otherwise everything is the same.
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Sorry, my 
is in the shop. Only thing that stood out to me was
That sounds a little cold to me, especially under LEDs. What’s the min/max value?
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Hmmm @ReikoX,
That’s one I hadn’t considered as a possible cause. Room temp range was 68-72F.
It’s been damned cold here in New England and my electric oil-filled radiator has a lag time once inkbird kicks it into gear. My focus was on VPD which was 1.2 - 1.4 night & day. RH average 50%
Those parameters are still in place and the plants have recovered.
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FWIW, I run my air temps at 81-84°F under LED. This usually gets my leaf surface temperatures to 75°F. VPD shpuld be calculated off leaf surface temps, not air temps.
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agreeing with Reiko. I’ve had those rust spots on my plants when my temps were under 70F. I believe the low temp messed calcium uptake. I’d up the temp …and gypsum fixes everything.
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Learn sumthin ever day round here…
I have commanded Captn InkBird to notch the temp set point up a couple degrees.
Gracias, (but no prize!),
-Grouchy 
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Yeah. I struggle with those spots every winter too. Winter growing is tough in the north
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I agree with all about temps too low
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Lights are currently 28 inches away and at 240 watts total. They are two HLG qb96’s in my slightly smaller than 2x4 closet. This is one thing that I have not been confident about. Ive been messing around with some of the lux apps. I’m pretty sure I should be somewhat in the right ballpark in terms of light but I could be way off depending on the accuracy of those readings
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