Well, after 20 years of living in the shadows after the original server seizures happened - I’m back !!
Sure looks different than it used to but since times have changed, I’m glad to be back.
Now, the point at hand…
Since there seems to be very little data about the subject, I thought perhaps some discussion here could yield some answers.
While, I HAVE continued breeding projects and work, it occured to me the other day that I’ve never heard anybody talk about what truly encourages seed growth and development - other than following the same diet regiment and cycle as flowering.
Does boosting certain nutrition, amino acids, more light than 12/12, LESS light…anything, actually increase seed development or shorten maturation time ?
For instance, I was sitting here thinking to myself “I wonder if once germinated, I could switch to vegetative light cycle for maximum photosynthesis”
Since the goal isn’t buds - does a change like that affect the DNA within the seeds ?
Does it create unstable DNA ??
Though I haven’t experimented with these ideas, they’re thoughts I have.
A couple pics of the current seed batch…
THAT is a good question, and only test and time will tell, I’d say the plant would prioritise seed production and maturation before growing vegetatively again? To test
The main diff for my seed runs is that I will continue to give my “week 3+” veg nutes mix once a week in conjunction with the flowering weeks 1-7 nutrient solutions.
I’m not aiming for flower, and seed making plants need more nitrogen then just flower producers.
That and @BudBusterPro which will tack on a week or two onto the flowering period but 120% increases your yield, seed size and vigour ever time!
I feel this holds water and I actually experimented a bit. This last rounds open pollination I ran on a 1:1 formula more N heavy as compared to a 2:1 more PK heavy feed that I would typically run in flower (though I have run a standard flower formula and had plenty of success.) and from what I’m seeing from the Blueberry Diesel x Black Cherry beans are thick and just seem super healthy. Mind you this is just conjecture. But my eyes are telling me this make more sense if you’re going for beans and not so much smoke. Flower definitely wasn’t the best looking but I’m pretty sure all the energy went into the beans.
Would love to see this put to the test with clones of a male female combo this way.
Very cool ! Though I am still wondering whether or not using the 24 hour light has any ill effects towards the genetics those seeds will produce. Primarily, hermaphroditism
That article seemed to be aimed at commercial hemp seed production, so I wonder if they would even care about the stability of the offspring.
Actually, I’ve followed the protocol in that article that @JoeCrowe posted above a number of times. It’s handy because once seed is set, I can move them back to my veg room. It’s amazing how many seeds you can make with a clone in a solo cup.
See - and that’s exactly what I’ve been looking to find out.
I’ve decided to do exactly that for their last week of growing (the 24 hours) because to me, more photosynthesis= more energy available to finish seeds.
It’s just such an oddball topic because nobody (in general) WANTS seeds
Generally I’d agree on natural environment, however - most indoor growers aren’t even truly doing that. 12/12 is basically used because it’s the bare minimum to keep them in flower - whereas in nature, the light cycles are gradual and by harvest time - less than 12/12.
So even there, nature isn’t “duplicated”.
Now the autoflower thing is actually a great point ! Because they’re generally grown under longer photoperiods, does that actually aid in seed maturation times ?
THATS what has me curious…
Oh I know, and the tried and true method has always been just fine. I’m more posing hypotheticals because I don’t see any discussion about it.
Everyone focuses on higher flower yields, faster plant growth, things of that nature. But all I DO is breed so, I’m more interested to know if anyone has found ways to enhance THAT side of things.
@Buddhachronic
Actually, the component that is most important in growing plentiful, large, viable seeds is really no different (from a Plant Physiology standpoint) than growing maximum bud, or for that matter tomatoes or artichokes !
You can have two plants that are grown exactly the same way, same conditions, the BIG difference is In the plants metabolic and translocation efficiency…this sounds archaic because most growers have never recognized it. BudBusterPro growers have seen it and it usually produces a 'Holy S*** ’ moment.
Now it is true that any reproductive structure is a LARGE nutrient sink. With increased metabolic and translocation efficiency your BBP treated plants can metabolize much more nutrient (higher EC) that will surely lock out your non treated plants. That higher nutrient demand is obviously rewarded with more flowers/buds/fruit/seed.
I sincerely respect growers choices in their nutrient and equipment choices ! So please don’t consider this a sales pitch…I’m just stating the facts for you. Good Luck with all your grows and I do hope they are all phenomenal !
Bob
I have to agree with your product. For me it works great. If you’re having issues with uptake you want after using BBP. I can only use it a few times. I can’t keep up. I’ll have to water and feed more. Nothing wrong with that. I try and go no larger than a 3 gallon container. Day 90 from seed is enough for me. 40$ goes a long way. @ReikoX clones are fun. Very true on making seeds.
I agree with that. I know tons of grower’s that clone only. No seeds at all. Seeds for me when I started. As I got older couldn’t get seeds or trust getting them. I love seeds. Not that I don’t clone. I’m not really set up for that. If I did clone I would have them everywhere.
