First Ender 3 I did the usual and printed a ton of ultimately useless mods. #2, 3 and 4 are bone stock other than Bigtree tech Mini E3 V2.0 boards, BL touch on some, not all (As I gained experience I use it less and less) and metal extruder upgrades. I dont bother much with the hotend as I dont do ABS really and hardly touch PETG. Glass bed and I’m set.
I did get an ender extender 400x400 kit, and gotta say that its a decent kit as you know, for me X & Y came in handy for larger buildings (I try to print walls laying flat more than standing up).
I’ve done my LST clips in PLA. I find that they hold just fine, and if you leave em on accidentally the plant can break em and not be cramped / kinked / restrained, but otherwise they hold decently. PETG is certainly gonna be stronger there, and if used in full sun, ie outdoors, might fare better as well…
I think glass downstem in PLA is the way to go… why print that if thats so easily sourced, and actually made for that task…
I can upgrade the 3018 to a 4030, but I gotta play with it first really… I built several of my own printers, starting with Anet A8 as a base, building frames, swapping mainboards Had a three color diamond print head for a bit, but honestly was more trouble than it was worth having the multi colors like that, there’s better options out there. Still have two AM8’s (A8’s, with metal frame conversions, plus mainboard upgrades), the direct drive IS nice for TPU… And a Zonestar cyclops / chimera that I can easily swap out the print head(s) on. Plus a Mars Resin which I might sell, I just dont use it as much as I would have thought (its amazing, but doesnt see much use for what I sell, surprisingly)…
I keep trying to talk myself out of a Palette 3 Pro.
Yeah, extenders for whatever project ya need, glass bed (got a sheet of g10 coming to play with), 32 bit silent board, auto bed leveling is mostly what I have on mine. Got the crazy expensive TH3D auto bed leveling kit and putting it just on one, my V2, to see if it makes any dif from a $30 bltouch. Prolly not, but will have my one v2 with excessive upgrades to make my minimally upgraded ender 3 pros jealous.
Skr mini 1.2 is what I started with because it was the latest board when I first got my ender 3 pro. OEM board was never installed and years later I have a mint 8 bit board. Need one? Got a v3.0 one now. No real diff aside from having to wire a fan into jst plugs. Interested to see if the dual z motors/lead screws help with accuracy. Cannot see many other upgrades out there would have a noticible speed or quality effect. Was looking at fan upgrades last night just for sound issues, but no practical/cooling reason for it.
I been successfully talking myself outta it since it was Palette 1…
Only cause I can’t afford it. Not because its amazing or anything… Thats really why the Diamond print head wasnt worth the hassles. Palette kills it. And has consistently improved their product as well…
Eventually I will cave… But I gotta justify it (right now I could almost justify it to use up remnant spools!)
I’m not only a seed and grow supplier, but I am also an engineer and designer for the one of the largest sign companies in North America, as well as running a basement customization shop for clothing and marketing supplies.
And a full time Dad, with another on the way. That’s the real job. My boss can be a real baby some times.
Even though they are synced, alignment isnt automatic, and can drift and needs to be checked and adjusted at times. The Anet A8 / my AM8’s are dual Z, from the mobo (no splitter, just Z1 and Z2 on the main board), and I have printed “stops” that I pop in on each side to adjust each Z motor to the other… I also added a dual Z on the 400x400 just because 400 is a LONG X axis and would slowly droop. Again, it helps but it can go “out” a little and needs a little adjustment from time to time. I’ve seen Prusa deal with it by using software endstops and running the Z axis all the way up on both sides till they BOTH hit the stopper (you’d be hearing one stepper skipping possibly?), then it descends. Just keep that in mind, they will be tethered but not necessarily bound to each other permanently, if ya follow me?
Yeah, constant adjustments are the way. The 3.0 board has a z2 so no splitter needed. Got it for the one with the 500mm extender kit and the dual z kit from them with the extra long lead screw for the right side as well. Same reasoning as you. At that height, prolly could use help with droop.
I started off as a wood worker, wood refinisher, went to welding school finished welded, fabricated for maybe 10 years, did a stint in a candy making factory, then to building web printing presses, did like 7-8 years of building and installing currency presses in Ft Worth, and DC.
Company got sold, and I did not want to move and the new wife, wanted me to stay home over traveling, so I did odd jobs for about 10 years, then retired and growing weed is my passion. well I’m also a tinkering fool.
Yes, but a LOT less than traditional cyclops, or the diamond! The diamond used 3-4x the volument of filament for the purge that it did for the actual print. I kinda like the chimera head, if dialed in right, at least two colors and no purge. There’s a 4 nozzle version as well offered by some company that I’ve seen.
Depending on what you are printing, you can also eliminate the purge block, and wipe to infill, if the print will allow it. Works sometimes, but not always
I work for a steel company, I’ve been a union steelworker 31 years. I look forward to retirement in 4 more years. I’ve done every job in here, at the moment im a heavy plate burner. Anywhere from 6” to 12” thick.
A lot of people from Oak Park River Forest HS worked at the stock exchanges…It was like hanging out with your friends from high school, you can also get any kind of drugs on the trading floor…We had our Halloween parties at the John G Shedd Aquarium & our Christmas Parties at the Museum of Natural History…I remember doing lines with my girlfriend on a huge dinosaur bone…
I work in an NGO, we collect electronics that are no longer used by people or that are defective and people want to discard, we recover these electronics and a part is sold to maintain the project, another part is donated to institutions in need. I am responsible for recovering notebooks, monitors and computer motherboards
we receive thousands of floppies monthly, but we don’t recover them, because it’s a technology that is no longer used, the floppies all go to plastic recycling.
I sell floppy disks with player piano albums on them. Also on CD and MP3 files. Some sewing machines, older industrial cnc kit, and government systems still use floppies. No longer made. Price has been slowly going up for new old stock for a few years now. Makes me a sad panda.
nice that there are still devices that use these floppy disks. If you need some, we can see if it is possible to send them from Brazil to you, because we really have many here. But here we no longer have a market for it, unfortunately.
Got a v3.0 one now. No real diff aside from having to wire a fan into jst plugs. Interested to see if the dual z motors/lead screws help with accuracy. Cannot see many other upgrades out there would have a noticible speed or quality effect. Was looking at fan upgrades last night just for sound issues, but no practical/cooling reason for it.