Ifish Introduces

Hi @Olbrannon : ) , I tried to open the megacrop link but my iPad kept timing out (old ) , I also clicked on the lower link and had a quick flick
To talk about your npk ratios I really need to know the exact ratios your using , or maybe you have another related question for me , I’m just a regular bloke not a lab coat haha : ) what’s on your mind ?

Sorry for not gettin back sooner , I was up the road getting my Chinese takeaway : )
I like a three bottled feeding regime , one for veg , one for early and mid flower and one for late flower
I’m indoor Mapito flood and drain

I had a look at the one part megacrop , it doesn’t suit the way I grow , it may suit others tho , just not me : )

Dude you just clarified something I’ve been puzzling over for almost a year. See why Jet likes you.

1 Like

Jetdro has a big hart , very likeable guy , we bounce of well togeather : )

If anything else is bothering you , just say , I love to help if I can : )
If it seems stupid to ask just hit me on pm : )

I’m keeping cut buds in a cool, dim but not dark, area with circulating air. When the twig snaps (or they feel the dryness of buds on twigs that snap) I move them to start-date/strain labeled jars with hygrometers. If the humidity in a jar is over 70 I dump to a table to dry overnight.
I burp the jars until the relative humidity hits 62, or dips below. I stick a Boveda 62 in the jar and keep an eye on it. When the RH stabilizes at 62 (for a week or two) I will remove and recirculate the hygrometer and Boveda.

2 Likes

Here’s how I do it

we harvest just befor lights on , this means that trichs are fully loaded with goodness

and the light has not degraded them yet , trichs are the plants sunscreen , at night the plant replenishes the goodness in them for the following day

The branches go hang in dark place or in paper bags , temp 17-21 c , 17 being best ( slowest dry time ) never dropping to 15 or lower , but with air circulating but not directly on the buds

after say 3-7 days depending on drying environment the outer surface of the buds will feel dryish but when you bend the branch it will just kink , no snapping yet

then they go into sealed plastic bags or jars , the contents of the bag over 1-2days will equalate moisture and the outside of the bud will feel wet again , then back to drying again in paper bags or hanging in dark

when outside of bud feels dry we bend the branch in a different place , if it kinks we go through the stages again etc

if we bend the branch , the top full half snaps but bottom half kinks ( like child’s green stick fracture ) this indicates that the buds are just at or slightly below 70 %rh , so it is safe to put in jars or bags as no mold will happen , we trim buds of branch , a humidity reader in the jar makes life easier , with this more detailed drying we are drawing the mousture from the center of the bud while also not drying the outer of the bud too quickly or over drying it : )

now in jars or sealed plastic bag peminatly , we open lids or open bag once a day for a minute or two , till the day we are finally happy ( steady 62%rh reading in small humidity reader in jar ) or by general feel /full snap , keep an eye on the humidity reader in the jar if you have one , as it may rise over night slowly so more burping required , needs to be steady 62 for storage

from chopping the earliest you can have a quick sample puff is usually10-14 days or 2 weeks but only at 3weeks will it start to get really potent and really nice tasting

if at any stage of this process you drop to below15c the cure slows down and if lower than 12c it stops and cannot be restarted

if you dry too quick you will not give the chlorophyll a chance to escape from bud and it will get locked into bud and bud tastes like hay

if contents of jar or bag goes at or below 55%rh the cure stops and cannot be restarted

4 Likes

YES…what I meant was: I use to have too much N in my flower formula, so I was “pushing N” meaning giving too much N…N grows leafs…so I meant my RATIO was wrong, I had too much N in the mix, and CONFUSED the plant with the high ratio of N in my feed during flower. Plant wants to make leaf not Bud when you do that. Took me LONG TIME to understand this all. I NOW ratio the plant to where they want to be during veg n flower, and use low PPM but feed constant. A constant low dose feed works better for my plants than a 1 or 2 time a week Whack with 1200 PPM.
When I use to use too much Nitrogen in flower I thought my plants were healthy, and they for the most part were . I was just not giving the plant what she wanted or needed at the correct times or ratios. Im finding out that the ratios we use are more important to the plant than the ppm or ec level at which they get it. When the flower ratio is out of whack, and we have 2 times the n as P or k…the plant responds by NOT fading, NOT growing strong stems, NOT making dense Buds, NOT having the terpin profile it should, and being way too dark green. Been there, done that, through with that. I no longer GROW LEAF N STEMS in flower, but GROW BUD and feed roots. 2 or 3/1/1 for veg for me, flower at 1/2/2-1/4/4 and the difference is night and day .

ifish is cool, knows of what he speaks, and i tend to like the way he explains things.

3 Likes

I’m an indoor grower , in Mapito , flood and drain
Outdoors and or organics ( teas and soil amendments etc ) isn’t my thing tho : )

1 Like

Is this true of dry as well as cure?

Yes , the lowest you want to go in the drying process is 16c , 16-17c is the best / slowest temp for drying and curing of buds ,

2 Likes

As I heard it bud rot needs 65 F or lower which is close to the numbers you have here. I would think you would want to keep it above that and with a cushion if true. OTOH I liked what I got when I dried in a fridge. Just not what it did to the food in there lol.

Hello that wasn’t to bad lol

2 Likes

Cool , now hit @Jetdro with a pm : )

2 Likes

@Stewsgreenthumb Here’s where to introduce yourself

And here’s jetdro topic

Fun times : )

2 Likes

Awesome Thanks Again!

1 Like