What up Fam! This thread will be a complete guide to everything I have learned about KNF and how I utilize it. All are welcome to share their experiences as well, the beauty of this community is the sharing and passing of knowledge so we can all succeed.
Before we begin I would like to thank @CrunchBerries for setting me on this path, I vividly remember the day you asked me if I had ever seen the guy burying rice in the ground to collect mold HA! I’ll admit my first thought was “eeeuw gross” but I had to look into it and forever my life has gone a different direction.
From there I found @lotus710 Growing On The Cheap thread and was hooked on KNF. Thank you for putting this out there, I’m sure I am not the only one that had the light bulbs go off due to your thread.
Drake Weinert has a website and youtube channel where all this information is shared freely and has been an extremely helpful resource. Thank you for making this information available and easier to understand!
https://www.youtube.com/@PureKNFDrake
And of course Han Kyu Cho or Master Cho, the originator of the KNF system.
Lets start with a little intro to KNF:
Korean Natural Farming (KNF) is an agricultural practice that emphasizes sustainable and regenerative farming methods. It was developed in the 1960s by a South Korean farmer named Han Kyu Cho, who sought to address the issues of soil degradation, environmental pollution, and the high costs associated with conventional farming practices.
One of the key components of Korean Natural Farming is the use of indigenous microorganisms (IMOs). IMOs are beneficial microorganisms found in the local environment, such as forests and fertile soils. These microorganisms include bacteria, fungi, and other beneficial organisms that help enhance soil fertility, improve plant growth, and suppress pests and diseases.
Key word here being INDIGENOUS - produced, growing, living, or occurring natively or naturally in a particular region or environment
Another important aspect of KNF is the use of natural inputs and locally available resources. Farmers are encouraged to make their own inputs, such as fermented plant juices and herbal solutions, using ingredients that are easily accessible and affordable. These inputs are used to nourish the soil, provide nutrients to plants, and promote overall plant and soil health.
Korean Natural Farming also emphasizes the importance of observing and working in harmony with nature. Farmers are encouraged to understand and mimic natural processes, such as nutrient cycling and ecological interactions, in order to create a balanced and sustainable farming system. This approach aims to reduce reliance on external inputs, minimize environmental impact, and promote self-sufficiency.
I like to break down KNF inputs into 3 categories
- Indigenous Micro Organisms (IMO)
- Ferments
- Extractions
These categories can then be broken down further into the individual inputs.
IMO, there are 2 main types of IMO we collect and propagate
Bacterial - specifically Lactic Acid Bacteria(LAB) and Fungal(IMO2-4)
FERMENTS, *Fish Amino Acids (FAA), *Fermented Fruit Juice (FFJ), and *Fermented Plant Juice (FPJ). *These are the food/nutrition.
Living Vinegar (LV)
EXTRACTIONS, Water Soluble Calcium (WCA), Calcium Phosphate (WCP), Oriental Herbal Nutrient
*(OHN) and Sea Water (SEA) *although not really an extraction it fits best here.
These inputs are then mixed into different solutions for the varying stages in a plants life cycle.
- Soil Formula
- Seed Formula
- Maintenance Formula
- Leaf Formula
- Bloom Formula
- Fruit Formula
- Harvest Formula
I will be detailing my process on each individual input and then the solutions as well.
INPUTS
INDIGENOUS MICRO ORGANISMS (IMO)
-Lactic Acid Bacteria (LABs, Lactobacillus)-
LABs provide several agricultural benefits, including promoting plant growth, suppressing diseases, improving soil health, enhancing nutrient availability, aiding in bioremediation, increasing stress tolerance in plants, and supporting sustainable farming practices. LAB produce growth-promoting substances, inhibit pathogens, cycle and solubilize nutrients, improve soil structure, and assist in seed germination and rooting. Their application reduces reliance on synthetic inputs and fosters environmentally friendly farming practices. Overall, LAB contribute to enhanced crop productivity, disease control, and sustainable agriculture. It is the most beneficial bacteria known on earth.
How to make LABs:
- Rinse rice in fresh water till “milky”
- Strain rice, cover rice wash water with breathable covering and let sit for 24-72 hours
It should smell slightly sour/sweet and you should have some sediment at the bottom - Pour one part of your inoculant into 10 parts milk. Top with breathable covering and let sit for 2-4 days until curds have solidified on the top.
- Skim off curds and reserve the whey, this is your broad family LABs
- You can store this as is in the fridge or you can supersaturate to stabilize. To super saturate add equal part brown sugar and stir thoroughly.
Dilute your LABs 1:1000
1mL for every 1Liter
4mL for every 1Gallon
Foliar for overall health and protection form PM and other pathogens.
Use organic cane sugar whenever possible. Some brown sugar is just white sugar with added molasses. If it doesn’t say “Cane” on the bag it is prob not pure cane sugar.
You can use any milk, even powdered, although I like to use local organic 1% milk. Local milk will give some added local microbes and the 1% gives me a good curd to whey ratio.
You can feed the curds to your animals, most love it and its great for them. Give it to your worms, or put in compost pile or bokashi bucket. Eat it yourself, my wife loves when I make labs, she eats it with olive oil and red pepper flake salt and pepper as a side with breakfast.
Every probiotic anything you see will contain at lest some Lactobacillus, usually one specific bacteria.
Because we culture a broad family the KNF LAB will be far more effective.
-IMO 2-4-
IMO is the foundation of KNF, have the ability to stimulate plant growth and development. They produce growth-promoting substances such as phytohormones, vitamins, and enzymes that enhance root development, nutrient uptake, and overall plant vigor. This results in improved crop yields and quality.
Suppress plant diseases by inhibiting the growth and activity of pathogens. They compete with harmful microorganisms for resources and produce antimicrobial compounds, such as antibiotics, enzymes, and volatile organic compounds, that can suppress the growth of pathogens and protect plants against infections.
IMO play a vital role in nutrient cycling and recycling within the soil ecosystem. They break down organic matter, including crop residues and animal manure, into simpler forms through decomposition and mineralization. This process releases essential nutrients, such as nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, making them available for plant uptake.
With the potential of Indigenous Microorganisms, farmers can enhance crop productivity, reduce the use of synthetic chemicals, improve soil health, and promote sustainable agricultural practices that are beneficial for both the environment and human health.
The collection and propagation of IMO in KNF takes several steps.
The initial collection is known as Seed IMO(IMO2), after the seed IMO ferments we Propagate IMO(IMO3) in a substrate, and then Soil Activate IMO(IMO4) with native dirt.
-IMO2 (Seed IMO)-
- Hard cook rice, let cool and dry. I do this in the refrigerator.
- once cool, place rice in a box such as a bento box or bamboo steamer 2/3 full. The volume is important, this allows enough air space for the microbes to regulate their environment and grow.
cover tightly with breathable material. - Place your box. the closer to your garden the better. Undisturbed old growth forest or bamboo is best. Look for active soil with visible mycelium under the leaf litter. place box so it is in contact with the soil, place a few chunks of active IMO on top of the box. I like to cover loosely with leaves. You can then hang a tarp or other covering over it so rain can’t get to it. Depending on area, a cage of some sort may be required to keep the critters out.
- Let sit until it is warm underneath. This usually takes 3 days to a week. Check it by carefully picking up the box and feeling the bottom, if it is cool its not ready, put it back for another day or 2 until it is warm to the touch.
- DO NOT open box in field unless you have sugar and a vessel and are ready to mix it. The goal is to preserve the collection with in a few minutes. Open box and make sure you have a good collection, we are looking for white fuzzy cotton ball structure. A tiny bit of color is acceptable but the cleaner the better. If its a rainbow, toss it in the compost pile and try again.
Mix your collection with equal parts brown sugar. Fill a glass jar 2/3 full, again the airspace is important here. - Allow to ferment for 7 days at room temp out of direct sunlight. You are now ready to use your IMO2
-IMO3 (Propagated IMO)-
- Mix your solution - 1 gallon for every 10lbs of substrate.
1:500 Seed IMO
1:1000 OHN
1:500 LV
1:500 FPJ
1:1000 LAB
1:30 SEA
1:1000 Humic/Fulvic Acid - Optional - Prepare your substrate. I like to use Mill run or if I cant find that I use course wheat bran. You can use many things to propagate your IMO but aim for 1:20 fat to carbon ratio. Adding biochar, wood chips, acorns, rice hulls etc can assist in the fermentation and add more diversity.
- Evenly mix your Liquid Seed IMO into your substrate pile adding little by little. The goal is a 60% moisture content or field capacity. Check for field capacity by squeezing the substrate in your hand, if you get a drop or 2 of liquid but not streaming, and if it clumps but falls apart when dropped you have reached 60% moisture.
- Turn pile often. Turn within the first 12 hours, I have found it helpful to turn the pile regardless of temp within the first 12 hours. The goal is to keep the pile below 120*. Should smell like baking sour dough bread, If you go too hot it will fail and smell like ammonia. Adjust the height of the pile to help manage the temp. Turning the pile will cool it by 10* or so.
- Once it cools to room temp its ready and should smell like a rich forest floor. Store in brown paper bags or something breathable. DO NOT let it get wet while in storage.
-IMO4 (Soil Activated IMO)-
- Mix your solution, same as IMO3 minus the Seed IMO - 1 gallon for every 10lbs of substrate.
- Prepare your substrate. Equal parts IMO3 and native soil/dirt. I like to use a mix of dirt and some soil but more of the straight dirt.
- Evenly mix your solution into your substrate little by little, again aiming for the 60% moisture content.
- Again, turn pile often the exact same as with the IMO3 pile keeping it under 120*
- Once it cools to room temp its ready and should smell like a rich forest floor. Store in brown paper bags or something breathable. DO NOT let it get wet while in storage.
I top dress with my IMO4 just like a kashi.
You can also make a tea known as LIMO from the IMO3 or 4 if you have larger area to treat.
Basically bubble a handfull or 2 of IMO4 with the same solution for 48 hours, dilute 1:30 and spray.
The key word in all this is INDIGENOUS
Foreign microbes will die off quickly and need constant re application(organic bottle feed model) whereas local microbes from your area will continue to multiply to countless generations. Only requiring re application after a disturbance or emergency.
You can use any stage of IMO and it will be beneficial. However remember the following analogy
IMO2 = high school education
IMO3 = college education
IMO4 = Doctorate
Micro organisms multiply a new generation every 30 minutes. For every week of propagation we gain 10,000 years of education and training.
FERMENTS
-Fermented Plant Juice (FPJ)- for Vegging plants.
FPJ provides essential nutrients perfectly mimicking plant exudates, stimulating plant growth, suppressing diseases, improves soil health, enhances stress tolerance, and serves as a natural alternative to synthetic inputs. It supports sustainable and organic farming practices while utilizing locally available plant materials.
FPJ can be produced using locally available plant materials, making it a cost-effective option for farmers. It offers a way to utilize surplus or waste plant materials effectively, reducing waste and supporting resource efficiency.
IMPORTANT FPJ/FFJ should always be used along with OHN and LV in the Maintenance Solution for a balanced feed. Food/Medicine/Cleanser
How to make FPJ
- Collect material. Do this as early as you can before the dew evaporates, this ensure maximum microbe population. Only take the growing tips of the plant you are harvesting for maximum growth hormones. Do not wash or rinse the material, shake off any excess dirt.
- Mix with brown sugar. Start with 1/3 the weight adding a little at a time. A lot of the info out there says to go with equal weight of sugar to material, I’ve found that 99% of the time this is way too much sugar. Too much sugar will halt fermentation. The goal is to coat the material.
Mix gently trying not to damage the material (If it is large, you can cut it into 1-2 inch long sections). Like hand mixing a salad. Once the material starts to sweat and wilting its ready to pack. - Pack your jar 2/3 full, again the ratio is important. Too little, move it to smaller jar, too much , move it to a larger jar or make 2 smaller ones. Pack is as tightly as you can. Top with breathable covering.
- Ferment for 3-7 days at room temp. Two signs it is done are a slight alcohol smell and visible mold developing on the surface. This mold is OK and a sign there is life.
- Collect the liquid by straining the juice. Let gravity do the work, DO NOT aggressively press the liquid out. Add equal part brown sugar to supersaturate.
Mix 2parts FPJ with 1part OHN, 2parts LV for Maintenance Solution.
I like to foliar this more than drench, seems to do a better job for me direct to plant. And it can get a little pricy drenching it depending on your preferred schedule.
Every 7-11 days is the recommended application. Ive gone as much as every other day and as long as I don’t exceed the dilutions everything seems to love it no matter how often I give it.
-Fermented Fruit Juice (FFJ)- For Flowering plants.
FFJ provides essential nutrients perfectly mimicking plant exudates, stimulating plant growth, suppressing diseases, improves soil health, enhances stress tolerance, and serves as a natural alternative to synthetic inputs. It supports sustainable and organic farming practices while utilizing locally available plant materials.
FFJ can be produced using locally available plant materials, making it a cost-effective option for farmers. It offers a way to utilize surplus or waste plant materials effectively, reducing waste and supporting resource efficiency.
IMPORTANT FPJ/FFJ should always be used along with OHN and LV in the Maintenance Solution for a balanced feed. Food/Medicine/Cleanser
How to make FFJ
- Collect material. Do this as early as you can before the dew evaporates, this ensure maximum microbe population. Pick un-ripe fruit for Crossover and ripe and over-ripe fruits for Bloom/Fruiting.
- Mix with brown sugar. Start with 1/3 the weight adding a little at a time. A lot of the info out there says to go with equal weight of sugar to material, I’ve found that 99% of the time this is way too much sugar. Too much sugar will halt fermentation. The goal is to coat the material.
Mix gently trying not to damage the material (If it is large, you can cut it into 1-2 inch long sections). Like hand mixing a salad. Once the material starts to sweat and wilting its ready to pack. - Pack your jar 2/3 full, again the ratio is important. Too little, move it to smaller jar, too much , move it to a larger jar or make 2 smaller ones. Pack it as tightly as you can. Top with breathable covering.
- Ferment for 3-7 days at room temp. Two signs it is done are a slight sweet alcohol smell and visible mold developing on the surface. This mold is OK and a sign there is life.
- Collect the liquid by straining the juice. Let gravity do the work, DO NOT aggressively press the liquid out. Add equal part brown sugar to supersaturate.
Mix 2parts FFJ with 1part OHN, 2parts LV for Maintenance Solution.
I like to foliar this more than drench, seems to do a better job for me direct to plant. And it can get a little pricy drenching it depending on your preferred schedule.
Every 7-11 days is the recommended application. Ive gone as much as every other day and as long as I don’t exceed the dilutions everything seems to love it no matter how often I give it.
Only ferment one thing at a time, rather mix the FFJ’s into the solutions. For example, instead of mixing blueberry, blackberry and banana into one ferment, make 3 ferments. Now say the solution calls for 6mL’s of FFJ you would add 2mL of each. Fermenting multiple species together will cause confusion among the microbes.
Always be mindful of the material you collect. Away from roadways. Not sprayed with any pesticides or chemicals etc. Use common sense, we are concentrating and extracting. If your purchasing fruit always get organic and local if you can. Pealing store bought fruit is a good idea regardless of organic status.
-Fish Amino Acids (FAA)-
Korean Natural Farming incorporates the use of Fish Amino Acid (FAA) to increase N availability in soils and improve crop yields while sustaining water quality.
Excellent for both plants and microbiology, rich in nutrients, nitrogen and amino acids that encourage the reproduction of DNA. Supports rapid, vigorous vegetative growth.
Mostly used in the juvenile stage when plants can’t fully manufacture their own amino acids, however it can be used super dilute throughout the plant growth cycle depending on needs.
Overuse can cause obesity.
FAA encourages sustainable practices by eliminating fish waste. All waste parts of fish can be used in the production of FAA.
How to make FAA.
- Add a layer of brown sugar to the bottom of your vessel 1/8 to 1/2 inch is fine.
- Add a layer of fish about 2-3 inches thick
- Cover that with a layer of brown sugar at the same weight, continue to alternate layers until you fill vessel 2/3 full. Again the ratio is important here.
- At the halfway point I like to add my IMO3 or 4 and a splash of OHN
- Top with final sugar cap.
- Cover with breathable lid and store out of direct sunlight.
- Check the vessel for the next few weeks, anything that floats to the top submerge with a rock. If it smells like rotting(like a dumpster, it will smell fishy) add more sugar.
- Allow to ferment for at least 6 months, some say 3 months but I’ve found it to be far too thick and sticky at this point still for me.
- Pour off your liquid when satisfied with fermentation or just leave it and strain off as needed. This is what I do. FAA will only become better with age becoming more and more bio-available.
Use FAA at 1:1000 ,4mL per/G during veg stage, reducing the dilution as the plants age.
Crossover 1:2000 and full on flower I go down to at least 1:3000
You can use any animal to make Amino Acids. The use of fish is traditional as it adds essential fats and oils specifically omega-3 fatty acids.
Use deep water ocean fish whenever possible. Blue-black fish such as mackerels, sardines,
skipjack tuna, etc.
There is a bottle of FAA on my kitchen counter. It goes into all my stir frys, when cooking any mushroom dish, shrimp or anything you want to hit with some serious umami. Literally the best fish sauce I’ve ever had.
-Living Vinegar (LV,Fruit Vinegar)-
Traditionally Brown Rice Vinegar is used, however banana and apple cider vinegar are excellent replacements. We will go over BRV later as Apple Cider Vinegar is readily available. Make sure it is organic and includes the “mother”.
Fruit vinegar can be used as a soil amendment to improve soil structure, nutrient availability, and microbial activity. It contributes organic matter and beneficial microorganisms to the soil, enhancing overall soil health and fertility.
It can be used to adjust the pH of the soil. This is particularly useful in situations where the soil pH needs to be slightly acidic or alkaline for specific crops or to address soil imbalances.
Fruit vinegars often contain trace amounts of various nutrients, enzymes, and beneficial compounds derived from the fruits used in the fermentation process. Applying diluted fruit vinegar as a foliar spray or in irrigation water can provide additional nutrients to plants, promoting their growth and overall health.
Applying fruit vinegar as a foliar spray or incorporating it into pest management strategies may help deter certain pests and reduce crop damage.
Fruit vinegars contain antimicrobial properties that help inhibit the growth of harmful pathogens. Using fruit vinegar in plant disease management practices can potentially reduce the incidence and severity of certain plant diseases.
By having biostimulant properties, LV promotes plant growth, root development, and flowering. They can act as natural growth regulators, enhancing the physiological processes of plants and increasing their overall productivity.
You can make a vinegar out of countless things. pretty much any fruit. I like to use the leftover from making FFJ’s.
How to make LV
- Mix 1 part leftover FFJ waste to 2 parts fresh water, filling your vessel again, that magic ratio of 2/3
Add a bit of scoby or a splash of already made vinegar to speed up the process - Ferment with a breathable lid for 3-6 months, I like to use those 5 gallon sports coolers as they prevent evaporation as well as breathability
- Test PH. Finished vinegar will have a PH of 2.4 or lower.
- Once desired PH is reached, strain through a fine mesh. I usually use a old t-shirt for this to keep any fine organic particles out. You may find a scoby has formed, you can use this to encourage further vinegars.
- Bottle your vinegar, I like to use glass bottles for my vinegar since they are on the acidic side.
I always have a bottle of my vinegar on the counter in the kitchen next to the FAA, we don’t buy vinegar anymore. Its used in everything you would normally use vinegar in.
Blueberry is bomb FYI. My wife take a shot every morning. I can’t do straight vinegar but I do have a Bloom Tea daily which includes the LV.
EXTRACTIONS
-Oriental Herbal Nutrient (OHN)-
OHN is a medicinal fermented tincture made from 5 traditional oriental herbal nutrients, Garlic x1, Ginger x1, Licorice x1, Cinnamon x1 and Angelica x2. All of which aid in digestion and cellular reproduction.
OHN improves overall plant health and vitality. It contains various medicinal herbs known for their beneficial properties, including phytochemicals, antioxidants, and essential oils. Applying OHN as a foliar spray or soil drench may support plant growth, enhance resistance against environmental stressors, and promote overall plant vigor.
The herbs used in OHN often possess antipathagenic properties. The application of OHN help to strengthen plant immune systems, increase disease resistance, and reduce the incidence of certain plant diseases.
Improve nutrient assimilation and uptake by plants. The combination of herbs in OHN contain compounds that enhance nutrient availability, improve soil microbial activity, and facilitate nutrient absorption by plant roots.
Promote root development and root system growth. The herbal ingredients in OHN may contain substances that stimulate root growth, increase root branching, and enhance the absorption of water and nutrients from the soil.
When applied to the soil, OHN can contribute to improving soil fertility. It contains organic matter and beneficial microorganisms that can enhance soil structure, increase nutrient availability, and promote the growth of beneficial soil bacteria and fungi.
Help plants cope with various environmental stresses, such as drought, temperature fluctuations, and pest attacks. Applying OHN to plants may support their ability to withstand stressors and maintain healthy growth.
How to make OHN
Ferment and tincture only one herb per container. You will have 6 containers, 2 for Angelica
- Rehydrate dried material by soaking in beer for 48 hours. Fill container 1/10 full with dried material. Pour in beer until half full.
- Ferment with brown sugar each ingredient individually in their own vessel 2/3 full like FPJ for 5 days.
Do Not strain the re-hydrated material, just add sugar to 2/3 full. - Tincture: Add vodka or grain alcohol to fill vessel.
- Stir each vessel daily for 14 days.
- Extraction: Pour off 1/3 of the liquid into individual containers. Seal containers air tight. Pour off into this for every following extraction.
- Re-tincture: This can be repeated x5. Refill each tincturing vessel full with vodka or grain alcohol and stir daily for 14 days.
- Final extraction just pour everything through a strainer and combine with the other 4 extractions. Store air tight separately until ready to mix and use.
Always keep separate until you are ready mix and use.
The longer the tinctures are stored the more potent they will become
Make sure containers are air tight in storage to prevent evaporation.
-Water-Soluble Calcium Phosphate (WCP)-
WCP promotes strong roots and stalks. Essential for building structure and overall vigor.
Calcium and phosphate are crucial macronutrients required for plant growth and development. Water-soluble calcium phosphate can provide a readily available source of these nutrients to plants, ensuring they have an adequate supply for various physiological processes.
Calcium is known to play a vital role in root development and growth. The application of water-soluble calcium phosphate can help promote strong and healthy root systems, leading to improved nutrient uptake and overall plant performance.
Involved in cell wall formation and strengthening. By providing plants with sufficient calcium, water-soluble calcium phosphate can enhance cell structure, leading to improved plant strength, rigidity, and resistance to lodging or collapsing.
Water-soluble calcium phosphate, can strengthen cell walls and make plants more resistant to pathogen invasion and pest damage.
How to make WCP
- Collect terrestrial bones. Boil all fat off or use already weathered bones. Any animal will work, I like to use deer as it is readily available to me from processors during hunting season. Easy barter for some organic homegrown
- Char bones. the bones must be brittle and black. they almost turn glassy when done. White is too done and brown is not done enough. I just use my grill to do this but ive seen folks use 2 charcoal chimneys stacked on top of each other with good success.
- Crush or break bones into .5 -1 inch pieces.
- Add vinegar to a 7:1 ratio. The bone material should start to bubble a little.
- Stir everyday for 7-10 days
- Strain off your WCP. You can compost the the bones.
Use WCP with MaintenanceSolution during veg or solo.
Dilute 1:1000 , 4mL per gallon
-Water-Soluble Calcium (WCA)-
Typically made from eggshell.You can also use coral or crustacean shell.
Calcium is an essential nutrient for plant growth and development. Water-soluble calcium provides a readily available source of this nutrient, facilitating its uptake by plant roots. Adequate calcium levels can promote overall plant health, support nutrient absorption, and improve various physiological processes.
Vital in the formation and strengthening of cell walls in plants. By supplying water-soluble calcium, plants can develop sturdy cell walls, leading to improved structural integrity and resistance to environmental stresses.
Enhance disease and pest resistance. Water-soluble calcium can contribute to strengthening cell walls and improving plant defense mechanisms, making plants less susceptible to pathogen attacks and pest damage.
Calcium is essential for the development and quality of fruits. Supplying water-soluble calcium can enhance fruit firmness, texture, and overall quality attributes. It can also reduce the occurrence of disorders like blossom end rot in certain fruits.
Adjust soil pH, particularly in acidic soils. Adding calcium can raise the pH level, promoting a more balanced soil environment that supports nutrient availability and microbial activity.
Calcium is involved in maintaining proper nutrient balance within plants. It aids in the uptake and utilization of other essential nutrients, such as potassium and magnesium. By providing water-soluble calcium, nutrient uptake and absorption can be improved, leading to better nutrient utilization by plants.
How to make WCA
- Collect at least 3 dozen eggshells, removing membrane as you crack them
- After dried, crush the eggshells coursely
- Roast the eggshells until they are the color of roasted marshmallow
- Once eggs are cool pour the shell pieces from one bucket to another in a slight wind. This will remove any leftover membrane. The eggshells will fall and the membrane will blow away.
- Mix 1:10 shells to vinegar. Pour the vinegar into the container with the shell pieces SLOWLY. This will have a reaction just like making a volcano in elementary school.
- Stir daily for 7days. Once the vinegar taste is gone it is ready. Still taste like vinegar add some more shells and stir for a few more days.
- Filter off the liquid and compost the solids.
Use WCA with MaintenanceSolution during flower or solo.
Dilute 1:1000, 4mL per gallon
-SeaWater (SEA)-
Sea water is abundant in various minerals and trace elements that are beneficial for plant growth and health. When diluted appropriately, sea water can provide essential minerals that may be lacking in the soil, enhancing nutrient availability for plants. Contributing to improving soil fertility. The minerals present in sea water, such as potassium, magnesium, and trace elements, can help replenish depleted soil nutrients, promoting a more balanced nutrient profile in the soil.
The minerals and trace elements in sea water can improve plant defense mechanisms and enhance pest and disease resistance. Strong, healthy plants with sufficient mineral nutrition are often more resilient to pest attacks and better equipped to combat diseases.
The diverse mineral content in sea water can support overall plant vigor and growth. Proper mineral supplementation can enhance root development, foliage growth, flowering, and fruit production.
The minerals in sea water can contribute to improving soil structure and aggregation. Sea water can promote soil particle binding, leading to improved soil porosity, water infiltration, and water-holding capacity.
Sea water is naturally 3% salinity, the same as our blood.
How to collect/make SEA
- Collecting: Collect top inch of water, where water crashes on rocks. Avoid close proximity to any runoff
- To make SEA add 30grams of sea salt to 1Liter of water. I like to use SEA-90 for this.
In KNF we dilute the sea water to between 0.3-0.1%. I still mix my sea water to full strength at 30grams per Liter and measure mL into my solutions from that. I find it much easier this way than doing the math and measuring out grams every time I make a solution.
The above solutions are the core base of the KNF method. There are more advanced solutions and techniques we will go over later on in the thread but this will give you every thing you need for beyond organic gardening.
Next up will be the Formulas and Application!
