I’m big fan of 3d printing myself (I’m loving czech made https://www.prusa3d.com/ printer).
I see that there are quite a few guys with 3d printers on Overgrow that can offer their services.
This is the topic to go to get something 3d printed!
3d printer guys, feel free to add your contact / advertise your services here.
Anyone in need of a tray sorter and or seed pucks , that are in U.S. can DM me.
I’ll post up my availability. Small print farm here, mainly print HO Scale model RR stuff, but can do volume as well. Have seed pucks with caps and a sorting tray, I’ve done some cannagar molds for people and I am working on larger ones as well. Also have a large bed printer for things like a Seed Separator which worked awesome.
DM for info.
Offering 3d modeling & print services , located in Canada but open to shipping where ever needed.
Will up load a few past projects
Thanks for your consideration
I would like a container that dispenses my jacks for me. Maybe like an oversized cocaine bullet? Rotate something at the bottom with a half turn to load. Then another half turn dispenses your 1/2 tsp load. Would need two containers configured differently. One for part A and one for part B. Let me know if that’s feasible.
Essentially like a gumball machine. Sounds interesting. Maybe make it a standardized TSP / TBSP measurement, since others will have different amounts needed? Each twist dispenses a TSP?
Might be good for a resin printer with the detail they can do. The seal between the “reservoir” of mix, and the “twisting dispenser” would need to be pretty tight tolerance, otherwise I see grit from Part A or B getting in there making it hard to twist eventually. Perhaps a spring loaded door, where you push in a pre configured measuring “slide”, so the slide pushes the door open, allowing mix to fall into the slide, and when pulling the slide out, the spring loaded door follows it and closes as you pull the slide out.
Spitballin ideas for ya there. Knowing that I have a 0.2mm tolerance with filament printers, and a 0.2mm layer height (resin is 0.01) there’s grooves that can collect that fine dust and cause friction and issues spinning eventually.
edit: having printed my own 1/10 scale RC car, might be useful to apply that here. Bearings are used in ALL rotational parts (608ZZ are most common). Skateboard wheel bearings essentially. Perhaps the solution is that the “spinning” part has a bearing on each end, and tolerance for the rest can be wide open (but snug against the dispenser). Grit wouldnt affect the twisting so much, any excess that squeaks by would be minimal and able to drop into your container you are filling. And bearings would provide longer, smoother operation.
I just see putting a printed rod, inside a printed hole as an eventual problem when dealing with fine particles. Bearings are probably a must-have in the design to eliminate that…
If its designed right, there could be interchangeable rods with different measurements, while the rest of the design remains the same. So, like you can pull out the 1/2 tsp rod, and put in a 1 tbsp rod, if you are mixing more / requiring more. Someone who needs several tbsp isnt gonna wanna spin the 1/2 tsp rod 6x as many times to get what they need, and its a simple design consideration. (make the rod big enough for a tbsp. and copy / reduce the measuring area to 1tsp / another to 1/2 tsp).
Threaded mason jar top for the A / B to be dispensed from mason jars.
could be a fun project…
I don’t want one but this is crazy to me:
There are metal infused filaments (like $250-$1000 a spool vs $25), for things that are intended to be printed at 20% larger than the required size (roughly) because shrink during burn off will bring it back down to its original size. This print is then put into a $10k oven, that slowly heats and cools and heats and cools, to burn off the plastic filament, and fuse the metal. Crazy technology but the end result is a printed metal part. There’s also sintered using a laser, fusing metal dust together. And there’s no reason those “3D printed parts” can’t be loaded into a CAM program and programmed into a metal cutting 5 axis CNC machine (granted, most of us dont have one, or access to one). But the file is all you really need… Crazy to think you can literally print one…
Interesting. You learn something new everyday. I remember “in the line of fire” with John malkovitch.
Pro tip: Use the correct tool to pry stuck prints off your glass bed or you may cut half your finger off like I almost did a few mins ago… (FML)
Even more pro tip. Put your glass bed in the sink and run cold water over it. Prints will just pop / slide off on their own in a few minutes (once everythings cool). Putting it in a freezer also works, I am just impatient…
Bonus to using cold water? Great chance to use some dawn dish soap, and REALLY clean the oils off the glass bed.
Hope yer fingers not too bad. I’m always nervous with REALLY stuck prints, but cold water / freezer usually works for them. I’ve also pulled chunks of glass off the bed trying to pry parts off…
Ya I am not too happy about it… I have a ton of shit to get done and this little fuckup is going to set me back a ways.
I had printed to many of the same print without cleaning the glass bed, that the last print was sooooo stuck last night. I cleaned it with alcohol real good and started printing another. I should have assumed that THIS print might actually release easier, because it did…
Wrong tool and somehow bad hand positioning = bad times.
I am guilty of that, though usually not at the same time. Do it a few times and you start looking at it like “if I slip, that razor is going right there? yeah, no, rearrange that” Still have close calls…
Crazy this is in here now. I got into 3d printing and basically dropped off this site for the last few months. Right now I’m playing around with a 0.2mm nozzle and 32mm miniatures and the Lucky 13 posable model. I’ll post up some of my makes tomorrow if I remember. Running a modded Voxelab Aquila.
Remix in progress…
What’s a remix? Its melding parts from different models to create a new one. Snagged a mason jar screw top, melded with a sugar dispenser. The “bullet” holds roughly 1/4 TSP per 1/2 turn (1 full turn is a 1/2 TSP). Still working on tolerances, but a rough test with sugar and it was ok, a little leakage, but not much. I have modified it (while this was printing), so there’s a number of changes in the “next” version. Lets see how these tolerances work… No bearings, 100% printed…
Wow, very cool!
So I could use a decent amount of 3d printing services if someone wanted to be commissioned for some stuff. I could use plant trainers, plant label stakes, more 10 seed pucks (or as many as you can fit in a coin flip circumference), the vacuum seed sorter that there’s a thread for on here.
And then the BIG one that I’d pay a hefty amount of money for.
My wife is a massage therapist and has been doing massages for almost 9 years and the average career span of a MT is 5-7 years. It is REALLY starting to take a toll on her wrists and hands and she’s tried every kind of compression glove she can find and none of them work well enough to massage with. So she wants to make her own so she knows it has everything she (or any MT) would need and I’ve been trying to design it in my head.
One of the things she wants is it to be seamless so there’s no seam to tear, which means it either needs to be thermoformed or something or poured into a separable 2 or 3 piece mold that has a hand inside at 50%(will require testing) scale to provide the compression. The outside 2 mold pieces would be removed and leaving the hand standing by itself and then the glove removed from the hand.
In my head it SHOULD work, it’d need to be designed so that when you pour a silicone mixture in there’s not all kinds of books and crannies for it to go, that it’d all settle at a 5mm thickness throughout the whole glove, so maybe only a 5mm gap between the hand and the outside 2 plates?
PLEASE if you can help me send me a message
I have seen printed casts which are made of PLA which is then put in a bath of hot water which will soften it enough to form it tightly around the affected area. So it can be done I’ve just never done it.
Sounds like you want a mix of Technologies though. Likely need to scan a hand to start with. Create a slightly oversized mold, possibly thermoform some pieces for added rigidity then pour silicone into the mold. I’m thinking almost kind of like a silicone kitchen glove with some kind of added rigid pieces inside it for support? Just spitballing ideas cuz that’s a little out of my range of specialties. Any of the other things I can easily handle though. That’s all 3D printing.
